— The Fishroom Library Archives —
General Articles on Fishkeeping, with an Emphasis on Killifish (2001-2005)
An archived collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from past issues of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter. To read an article, please click on the title (in blue).
All material is copyright © G.C.K.A. or the authors, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.
Acclimate Your Fish – the Drip Method.
A Few of the Basics – on Collecting.
Ageing Water
Airpump vs. Blower?
Alternatives for Tank Covers
Ammonia – it’s an invisible killer.
Aquarium Rashes – got a rash? It might be from your fish tanks.
Breathing Air – A Lifegiving Adaptation
Beware the Camallanus Worm! – a serious parasite
Breed Those Fish … Nature’s in Ever Shorter Supply
Buying fish – Wild caught, or domestically bred? Which is better …
Camallanus Alert!
The Case for Dirty Water – some additional observations.
Cheap Filters – In the produce section? Build your own filters.
Chloramine
Cleaning the Freshwater Aquarium – (almost) seven steps to success.
Cleaning Planted Tanks
Color Variation in Killifish – It’s Nothing New. Some of the “sports.”
Designer Killies
Filter Floss … a good addition to your fishroom.
The “Filth Factor” in Killifish Tanks – your tanks need not always be pristine.
Fish Have Personality? Yep …
Freshwater Shrimps – other “critters” for our tanks.
Garlic for fish
How to Stop Fry Predation
Hunting Strategy – who says fish aren’t smart?
Hydra Revisited – what to do about a problem we’ve probably all had.
A Quick Course in Inheritance – it’s in the genes.
Judging Killifish (1).
Judging Killifish (2)
Just How Big is that Aquarium?
Keeping Records – some of the basic information, by Donna M. Recktenwalt.
Killifish in Mosquito Control – various efforts.
Killie Ponds – Summer Vacation for you and your fish!
Killifish – You can do it!
Lighting for Killifish
Livebearer Killies?
Low Cost Filter Floss
Malay Snails – love ’em or hate ’em. Another method for getting rid of ’em.
A Few Myths … About Killifish
Odors in Your Fishroom? – some possible sources.
Overrun by Snails? Try This … – some additional techniques.
Peat and Carbon as Water Treatments
How One Aquarist Uses Rainwater in tanks.
Pro-nun-see-a-shun – a general guide to those hard-to-pronounce names.
Really Cleaning Gravel – when you want to kill everything!
Rotating Fish Out of Tanks – tips from a fellow killikeeper.
Shipping Killifish Eggs – a few observations
Should You Use Plastic Plants? – the pros and cons.
Some Influences on Fish Color
Strange Bedfellows – BIV and FAL
A Summer Vacation – for your fish?
Survivor: Killifish Edition
The Swim Bladder – more than you probably wanted to know.
Things We Forgot to Tell You – a collection of things you might need to know.
A Tip Regarding Filters – plagued by “squashed” fish? One solution.
Too Many Fish? – the necessity of culling.
A Treatment for Leeches
Traveling Killies … – they do get around from tank to tank.
Traveling Fish? –Hitchhikers, Visitors, or Water Changes?
I Like Undergravel Filters – one aquarist’s methods.
Weighing the Impact of Genetically manipulated fish – the Glofish (R)
What to Expect at a Fish Show – a primer for those who’ve never attended.
Where to Begin – Your First Tank
You Know You’re Married to a Fishkeeper When … (humor)
Acclimate your new fish …
The Drip Method
Most killikeepers agree that the least stressful way to acclimate new fish to your water conditions is through the drip method, where new water is added very slowly to a container over a long period.
The incoming fish, in their shipping water, are placed in a container sufficient to hold the volume of additional water desired. The container is then covered to prevent fish from jumping and a slow drip into the container is begun. Local conditioned water, or water from the tank the fish will occupy, is added until 3-4 times the volume of water in the shipping bag has been reached.
Some aquarists set up their drip using a plastic cup with a hole punched in the bottom, set directly over a hole in the corner of the receiving container.
Others prefer to siphon water from one container to another, using a piece of airline tubing with a knot tied in it to control water flow (tighten the knot to slow the drip).
"I run a strand of yarn through airline tubing," says Jay-Scott Moylan. "Then I wet it by sucking some water through. This will work as a very low speed siphon by wicking water." This technique is useful for adapting new fish to equalize tds., etc. "I also use this sometimes for water changes if I have really small fry … and don’t want to disturb them too much."
Because this technique works by capillary action, there is no suction at all in the tube.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001 Return to top of page.
So You’re Going Collecting …
A Few of the Basics
You, too, can collect your own fish.
In the continental U.S., all that collecting usually requires is a willingness to wade out there and get wet, some old clothes and a pair of old sneakers, a state fishing license, and a few basic pieces of equipment.Legalities
In many states, you will need only a current fishing license to collect fish. For the most part you will be taking “bait fish,” but check the local Fish and Game laws and prepare accordingly. If you’re collecting in another state, plan to get a short-term non-resident fishing license. It is possible to get a scientific collecting permit, but that is usually difficult, requiring official affiliation with an educational or governmental organization.
If you’re collecting in tidal/marine waters, often the only limitation is net size. You’re probably safe with nets less than 4×40 ft., if you’re not selling your catch. In many states there are protected/endangered species that you can only collect with federal permits, and the penalties for possession are severe.
What do you Need?
Nets, usually a seine net and a dip net;
Plastic bags or jars;
Bucket or container for temporary storage;
Notebook, pen, and marker to keep track of your
haul; and
A cooler to keep your specimens from extreme temperatures until you can get them home.
Your equipment will vary, depending on whether you are collecting and transporting locally, by car, or whether part of your trip will be by plane.
Nets
“Take along a one-handed seine, or a bigger one if you’ll have someone to help,” recommends Bob Goldstein. “Get the longest handled dip net you can find.” Alternatively, rig an extension handle to the net you have, with the screw-together segments used for painting poles. These can be taken apart and stowed in a suitcase. Mesh size is usually 1/4 inch, but 1/8 inch is even better.
Seine nets are usually rectangular, 4 feet high, and vary in length. With poles added at the ends, smaller seine nets can often be operated by one person; larger ones usually require two people. “Seine nets are surprisingly cheap, around $20.00 for a 4 ft x 20 ft. net with lead weight along one edge and Styrofoam floats along the other,” says Bruce Stallsmith. This type of net gives you a “top and bottom” effect.
Dip nets are long handled nets similar to those for home aquaria. They’re especially useful in plant-filled waters, or for getting in under plant growth on the banks.
Once you’ve caught your fish, you’ll need to sort, store, and transport them. A bucket or large transparent jar can be used for temporary storage. Sort your catch directly from the net, placing potential keepers in the bucket. Later, sort, bag, and mark for transport. You can take them home in whatever is convenient: plastic or glass jars, empty milk jugs, or plastic bags, all stored inside a Styrofoam cooler for thermal protection.
Record Keeping
In the enthusiasm of collecting, essential details can easily be lost. Take time to record data about each location and the type of habitat involved. Be sure to properly mark all containers so you can correctly identify and document your specimens once you’re home.
A small notebook works well, with a number assigned for each site, and each specimen container marked with the same number. Site information should include a brief description of the location, the habitat (pond meadow, open spring, shaded forest stream, etc.), plus the habitat type where you collected (open spring, shallow running creek, weed filled shallows, etc.) Additional useful information includes water temperature, water parameters, and notations about the type of plants and other animals found, etc.
Once you’re home you can finish up the positive identification and documentation of your catch.
So go to it – get wet, and have fun!
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September/October, 2002 Return to top of page
Ageing Water
Thanks to David Sanchez and Charles Harrison, on theKillitalk Mailling List.
Aged water is water in which fish have been living, or water in which fish may live. Aged water is water which has been adjusted for temperature, pH, chlorine, hardness, tonic strength, and other physical and chemical conditions to make it liveable," says Charles Harrison.
Many aquarists think that ageing water for our fish is a thing of the past, or simply a matter of bubbling air through a bucket overnight. With the addition of chlorine and chloramine to many water supplies, we now need to add a chemical chlorine/chloramine neutralizer, and often must run the water thorugh a carbon filter as well, to make tap water suitable for changing aquarium water. When discussing ageing water, "many of us assume that authors … are just talking about removing chlorine," David Sanchez says. "They are not!"
Older literature talks about ageing water for breeding by allowing it to sit in peat or allowing rainwater to age. Older aquarists, especially the Germans, allowed rainwater to filter over carbon, then to sit for as much as months in peat. The resulting water was used to breed Tetras.
Killies are easy to breed. Because of that, "we may have a hard time understanding why anyone would age water," David points out. "However, keep in mind that tetras are rather difficult to breed, and such fish require much special attention – especially to the water. There has to be a proper balance of ions and trace elements for a successful breeding episode to occur.
"I happen to have a collection of ‘old’ literature," David continues. One such book, dating from the 1950s, is Breeding Aquarium Fish from Datz, translated into English. "It is a joy to see how these pioneers went about breeding their fish. What efforts they would go to. Raising cyclops, going to forest streams to find the right water, etc. For breeding neons they would age the water for at least a month."
We may have it simpler today, but we still need to think carefully about how we properly age the water we use, to most benefit our fish. Consider your water handling process: are you doing what is necessary to provide the best water to meet the needs of your fish? – G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2002 Return to top of page
Airpump vs. Blower?
You’re designing, or updating, your fishroom air handling system, but you’re not quite certain what type of system to consider.
Allen Johnson, in an e-mail on the Killitalk mail list on February 25, 2001, addressed this very question. Perhaps some of his observations can aid in your decision making.
"I have approximately 50 aquaria supplied by a central air system," Allen wrote. "I have used both compressors and my present blower." Both supplied adequate amounts of air, and purchase and operational costs are about the same.Advantages of a Compressor
1. A compressor can supply air to a storage tank, which can be bled off as needed.
2. The higher pressure obtainable from a compressor is capable of moving air to deeper aquaria.
Advantages of a Blower
1. A blower is significantly quieter. The only real noise is the bubbling of the filters and water movement.
2. A blower is very low maintenance.
Disadvantages of a Compressor
1. A compressor generates much more noise, which may be objectionable (especially if located close to living areas).
2. Many compressors require changing diaphrams when they wear out (perhaps every couple of years or so).
3. Compressors generate waste heat. This can be either an advantage or a disadvantage, depending on fishroom conditions.
Disadvantages of a Blower
1. High back pressure may shorten vane life. If you need to move air to deep tanks you may have to replace the vanes in a few years.
2. Blowers generate very little waste heat.
“For me,” says Allen, “the blower is the better choice.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, month Return to top of page
Alternatives for Tank Covers
A number of materials will make effective covers for your tanks at considerably less expense than the glass covers available from suppliers. Aquarists have experimented with various materials, and have found several that meet the fishkeepers needs quite well.
"I’ve been using 1/2" fluorescent light grids on some of my larger tanks," says Donna Recktenwalt. "It’s quite effective at keeping the fish in; it works well to feed and replace water through, and allows light through as well." She has a 10-gal. light hood fixture sitting atop the grid over a 20 gal. tank. "The gridding does allow for quite a bit of evaporation, but that may not be a problem for some."
John Alegre has another suggestion. "Purchase Styrene light fixture material." This comes in 4x8 ft. sheets, in both clear and opaque forms, and is usually available in the lighting section of home supply stores, right near the fluorescent grids. It will bow and fall into a tank," John says, "but if you cut a piece the same size as the 1/2" grid material you can epoxy the Styrene over the top of the grid material and have the best of both worlds." A modification he has found useful is to use the opaque Styrene over the grid near the back of the tank, then cut a second piece for the front and epoxy a marble or old bottle cap to the middle of it for a handle. This allows for easy feeding and water changes. "Once constructed, these things last for years," he says.
If you have (or buy) a glass cutter, you can make your own tops, advises George Davis. A good source of used glass is old storm windows. Take them apart and use the glass for tanks, tops, and "collection pieces" atop worm cultures. Glass won’t warp, and you can affix a "handle" on it.
Glass cutting is actually pretty easy, advises Bill Shenefelt.First, get a glass cutter.
Use a towel or thin throw rug beneath the sheet of glass.
Make a T-square with two wooden yardsticks perpendicularly glued together (make a “T”). Place the T-square on the glass, with the top of the “T” along the outer edge.
Thoroughly clean the glass along the scribe line.
Wet the cutter in turpentine (or spit,) and make a smooth draw (about 1 ft. per second) down the length of the cut. Don’t forget to account for the offset of the cutter wheel! The glass should “sing,” not “crackle.”
Don’t try to break the glass along the cut.
Don’t repeat the cut.
Place the ball end of the cutter beneath one end of the cut, then press down on the glass on both sides of the scribe line, right at the ball. The cut will “run” down the length of the cut.
For those not so handy, John Wubbolt says that he goes to his local hardware store and has plate glass cut to fit his tanks. For 2.5 or 5 gal. tanks the cost is about a dollar each; for 10 gal. tanks a couple of bucks. “All you need is some emery paper to take the sharper edges off the sides, which are left after the glass is cut. Another potential source is a local frame shop. “Check what kind of glass cutter they use,” advises Nick Ternes. “Many use a computer calibrated cutter that cuts very straight.”
If in doubt of the quality you may get, you can take along a sample tank cover, and impress on the cutters the importance of the glass being cut square, and fitting the tank properly.
“I’ve tried the Styrene and the acrylic stuff and have found it to be too flimsy and flexible to suit me,” says George Caruso. “I have used the plastic grid material found in craft shops” with a plastic channel as a frame around the edges to keep the grid stiff enough. Plastic channel is sold at hardware stores for use with plastic or acrylic window material. He cuts it to length, then cuts the ends at a 45 degree angle. Once in place, he uses a hot glue gun to connect the pieces. “The drawback is that it does not slow evaporation,” he says, and is only suitable for fairly small tanks.
“I use glass and plastic covers,” says Lee Harper. Acrylic (Plexiglas and Lucite) warps due to expansion on the humid side. Polystyrene works fine, and I have used the diffusion panels sold for light fixtures.”
— GCKA Newsletter, July 2003 Return to top of page
Ammonia – it’s an invisible killer
We can’t avoid it – ammonia. It’s one of the most common causes of unexplained deaths in the aquarium. It occurs in fish waste and is produced in the decomposition of plants, fish, and uneaten food. The nitrogen cycle helps convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate, which can be taken up by plants, but sometimes that isn’t enough.
With regular monitoring, ammonia should never pose a threat to your fish. To prevent its buildup, the fishkeeper can utilize appropriate plants, perform frequent water changes, use efficient chemical and biological filtration, and maintain low stocking levels.
However, all of this may be of little use if you don’t know what your ammonia levels are. The simplest way to measure it is with a test kit. These come in several types: liquids, which are mixed with a sample of aquarium water; powders and tablets, which must be dissolved in the water sample; and sample strips, which are simply dipped into the water. All tests are then compared against color samples to determine the amount of ammonia present.
Once you have determined your ammonia level, you need to determine the best course to adjust it, if necessary. The first (and most obvious) step is to do a partial water change. This will immediately reduce the ammonia levels.
If you have a heavily stocked tank, move the fish into a larger tank, or divide them among several tanks.
If you’re using no plants, try adding some. For killikeepers the plant of choice is probably Java Moss, which grows under most light conditions and is well known for its water filtering qualities. For brighter light conditions, Najas Grass, Hornwort, or Watersprite may work well.
Cut back on feeding your fish. Overfeeding is one of the most common causes for tank problems. Feeding less, or feeding the same amount less soften, may improve conditions.
Given appropriate conditions and good care, most aquariums will be a pleasure to the fishkeeper.Reference: Brodie, Colin G., B.Sc. Hons. “Ammonia: How to track an Invisible Killer.”
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – November 2003 Return to top of page
Breathing Air –
A Lifegiving Adaptation
In many tropical waters the oxygen content is too low to support aquatic life that rely on their gills. A number of species have developed an auxiliary breathing organ that allows them to survive in oxygen deficient waters by enabling them to extract atmospheric oxygen from the air. This supplemental supply is vital to the fishes’ well being.
Most aquarists are familiar with the armored Corydoras and Callichthys catfishes, which make regular and rapid dashes to the surface to gulp in air. Certain species will die, even if living in well oxygenated water, if denied direct access to air.
The operation of the auxiliary breathing organ varies among species. Lungfish take in air through their lungs, or through a lunglike air bladder. Fish of the genus Clarius have a sacklike enlargement of the gill cavities that contain vascular surfaces increasing gill efficiency.
Erythrinus and Gymnarchus species have a vascularized inner surface of the air bladder which can absorb oxygen from swallowed air.
In the Labyrinth fishes, the additional breathing organ is located in the gill cavities, which are extended forward, behind and above, into the skull. A passage runs from the mouth through the first and second gill arches. Swallowed air goes directly into the labyrinth cavity, which is lined with blood vessels, thus absorbing oxygen directly into the bloodstream.Reference: Lewis, Dr. Peter Anthony. “Fishy Trivia,” Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, June 1988, p. 15.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February-March 2003 Return to top of page
Aquarium Rashes?
Got a rash on your arms or hands? Been working in your aquarium recently?
Rashes and scratches are not uncommon among aquarists. We get them from the edges of hoods and frames, from the sharp edges on glass covers, and from rough-edged rocks used as décor, especially when we have been working with our hands and arms deep inside a tank.
Ordinary frame abrasion can be further irritated by the mineral encrustations left by splashing water and breaking bubbles from filters and airstones. Add to that the accumulation of gunk along the rim – algae, bacteria, decaying fish food – and you have a ripe area of irritation that can trigger allergic reactions in some people. These are usually fairly minor in nature and can be easily treated with antibiotic or anti-itch salves as required.
But there are sometimes more serious effects. In freshwater tanks, Mycobacterium fortuitum can result in swelling and reddened, raised lumps in humans, usually on the hands and fingers, which are cooler than the more muscular arms. These infections can be difficult to treat, even with antibiotics prescribed by a doctor.
Irritations and/or infections may also occur where an aquarist received an injury from a fish spine, or partway up the arm, from rubbing against the aquarium frame.
If symptoms persist, see a doctor, and be sure to mention that you keep fish and have been cleaning aquaria. If you’re particularly sensitive, you may want to use long rubber gloves when working in your tanks.Reference: Wickham, Mike. “If you have an aquarium – and a rash – welcome to the hobby,” Freshwater Q&A,” Aquarium Fish Magazine, March 2004, p. 10.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – July 2005 Return to top of page
Beware the Camallanus Worm!
One of the less glamorous facts of tropical fish keeping is the occasional occurrence of parasites. Most killikeepers manage to keep white spot (Ich) and Velvet (Oondinium) under fairly good control, but occasionally, we’re faced with the dreaded Camallanus worm.
Until recently, the only cure for this pest (which is noticeably visible only when fine red "threads" begin to protrude from the anus of affected fish), was euthanasia of the fish and complete sterilization of the tank. More recently, a treatment has been found, as reported in a recent article by Charles Harrison. Since the larval forms of this parasite can spread rapidly through a fishroom, early (and thorough) treatment is recommended.
Members of the nematode family, Camallanus worms are intestinal parasites that use a row of hook-like structures to attach to the inside of the intestine, and feed on the fishes’ blood. Close inspection of infected fish reveals a swollen, irritated vent area. The larval forms of the worm use common copepods as intermediate hosts, and the infestation is easily transmitted from tank to tank.
Early signs of the problem may go unnoticed, and include minor swelling of the belly and lack of appetite. Later, twisted spines are not uncommon. Eventually, the anus and reproductive organs become so inflamed that secondary infection kills the fish.
Levacide (levamisole hydrochloride), a cattle wormer, has proven effective against Camallanus worms. Charles has levamisole hydrochloride available in 5 gram packets. Dissolve in 3 oz. of water to make a 5% solution; 2 ml of this will treat 2 gallons of tank water. A 5 gm packet is enough to treat 100 gals. of tank water. Use is straightforward: dose the tank, then 24 hours later do a complete water change, vacuuming the gravel to remove any remaining larvae.
"It’s hard to overdose with this chemical," says Charles. "The fish in our study showed no side effects at all. Close examination of the tank water showed no effect on … other tank flora." Close observation of treated fish is recommended, since full impact of secondary infections may not become visible immediately.Reference: Harrison, Charles H. “Treatment for Camallanus.” http://www.aka.org, affiliate clubs, St. Louis K. A.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003 Return to top of page
Breed Those Fish …
Nature’s in Ever Shorter Supply
Those in the killifish hobby are well aware that many species are becoming steadily more endangered in the wild. Recent information underscores the importance of maintaining the species we do have.
Roger Langton, recently appointed Emergency Survival Program Coordinator (ESP) for the AKA’s Killifish Conservation Committee (KCC), notes that the following are currently on the "Red List, and need immediate attention by hobbyists and breeders."Aphyosemion elberti N’tui – has disappeared due to habitat destruction. This may turn out to be a separate species once the A. elberti populations are studied more thoroughly.
Cyprinodon alvarezi, El Potosi, Mexico – Extinct in the wild. Status in the hobby presently unknown.
Epiplatys chaperi schreiberi – Presumed extinct due to habitat destruction.
Fundulopanchax oeseri – Now extinct in the wild, although it is still in the hobby (AKA and DKG).
Fundulopanchax walkeri GH2/74 Kutunze – Extinct in Ghana due to habitat destruction.
Simpsonichthys marginatus – Extinct in nature due to habitat destruction. Under special efforts to breed and distribute this species.
If you currently have any of the above species in your fishroom, please continue your efforts to breed them. Roger also asks that you contact him (303) 673-0673 or e-mail RWLACN@aol.com.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002 Return to top of page
Buying fish –
Wild caught, or domestically bred?
When purchasing fish, we all know that we should look for strong, healthy stock, from a good source. Fair price factors into the decision, but more importantly, for many killikeepers, is acquiring a particular species.
But should you purchase domestically bred fish, or wild-caught ones?
Domestically bred fish tend to be more readily available, and are often (but not always) lower in price. Their distinct advantage is that they have been raised in aquaria, thus are used to the types of water conditions and food regimens encountered, and are fairly used to be handled and having people moving around nearby. They are usually healthy and free of disease or parasites. They may, however, have lost some of their species vigor and genetic variability from extended generations in aquarists’ tanks, and (if the aquarist has bred his fish selectively) be somewhat different in appearance from their wild cousins.
Wild fish usually have broader genetic variability and are truer to type, but they have their own pitfalls.
"Buying wild fish is a high stakes gamble," says Tony Terceira. "There are many times when the fish survive, acclimate and produce plenty of eggs. There are other times when the fish … produce no viable F1…. I have brought in fish and lost hundreds of them with 24 hours, or over a week or two. There are many variables to consider," when they were collected, how long they were held before shipping, when they were last fed.
"Wild-caught fish are far more likely to expire for unexplained reasons," says Wright Huntley. "Breeding them can be from several times to 50 times harder than for tank-born fish… Wild fish go through many shocks that may, or may not, shorten their lives… [and] most have no resistance to common aquatic pathogens" that farm or tank-raised fish have developed immunities to. "Take some extra care [with wild fish], or count on low production."
"There is an excitement in trying to produce F1 from wild parents that is sometimes worth the risk. I warn all the people who purchase wild fish from me that there are risks involved," Tony continues. When buying wild fish, "It is probably better to buy more of a few species," Tony says, "than a few of many species since you have to expect losses."
"There is no easy answer," Tony concludes. "Perhaps think of [buying wild fish] as going to a Casino. Never spend more money than you can afford to do without."— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003 Return to top of page
Camallanus Alert!
For those who may not be familiar with this parasite, Camallanus (aka "bristle-butt") is a parasitic nematode that is most often discovered at the late stages of infection, when the parasites protrude from the anus of the fish, looking like small red bristles (hence the "bristle-butt" description). Subclinically infested fish may show no obvious symptoms beyond a general lack of vigor and breeding success, although anecdotal evidence indicates that a subclinical infestation can cause bent spines in juveniles and young adults. Many fish may often carry the parasite without showing any obvious signs of infestation, beyond the general unthriftiness.
Although Camallanus requires an intermediate host in order to reproduce, this doesn’t help most of us since the copepods it requires (such as Cyclops) are often already resident in our tanks. Once present in a fishroom, the parasite spreads readily via contaminated equipment and water.
Even though they show no obvious signs of infestation, subclinically infested fish still spread the parasite, making its identification and eradication difficult. Probably the best approach is to treat all tanks and equipment when an infestation is suspected.
Treatment is usually relatively straightforward using Levamisole hydrocholoride, a wormer approved for veterinary use.First, remove obviously infested fish and destroy them if possible.
Second, bleach all nets, hoses, siphons, etc. with a dilute bleach solution (read the label on your bottle of bleach to find the correct proportions).
Third, treat every tank and body of water with a vermifuge at the appropriate dose.
Fourth, contact the buyers and sellers of your fish and let them know about the problem and how to treat it.
Fifth, watch your tanks closely. Repeat treatment if necessary.
Finally, remember to practice thorough quarantine procedures to prevent any future outbreak.
For more detailed information on the Camallanus parasite and using Levamisole in its treatment, see the Saint Louis Area Killifish Association website, http://inkmkr.com/Fish/Camellanus Treatment.pdf.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2004 Return to top of page
The case for dirty water …
Some Additional Observations
Thanks to Wright Huntley
We’ve all read and heard about it – one of the keys to having healthy fish is regular partial water changes.
In the January 1999 issue of the GCKA Newsletter, we printed "A Case for Dirty Water," an article addressing the benefits of "benign neglect" and its positive effect on the health and reproductive activities of some fish species.
We may need to rethink that advice.
"Trouble with water changes has exploded in recent years," Wright Huntley said in a post to the KillieTalk E-mail List, "as chloramine has become mandated in many water systems. Doing smaller and less frequent changes has become particularly popular with breeders."
In the Betta community, it is common practice to do frequent 100% water changes, particularly for jarred single males. Chlorine is deadly to fish, so good breeders religiously used some form of dechlorinator. When their local water companies switched to chloramine, the result was total fishroom wipeouts. Hardest hit were the big breeders who did the most regular water changes. Those who changed water less had fewer losses, but more sick fish and fewer spawnings.
"One of the nastier side effects …of chloramines is partial sterilization of fish exposed to sub-lethal (and unmeasurable) levels of ammonium/ammonia." Treating chloramine-treated water with the same products used for chlorine-treated water neutralizes the chlorine, but doesn’t affect the chloramine, so water changes may in fact cause a reduction in eggs and fry. In some cases, unrecognized chloramine may stop egg production altogether.
"I’m sure there are other problems introduced by water changes," Wright continued. Ammonium/ammonia is highly dependent on pH, which may make the symptoms of chloramine variable and sporadic. Add tds changes, temperature changes, etc., and more variability may ensue.
One of the ways to avoid problems with large, frequent water changes is the use of carbon filtration to condition water. However, carbon filters must be monitored carefully, since carbon selectively grabs various compounds until it becomes saturated, after which it will allow "punch through" contamination of one or more undesirable compounds. If a new toxic ingredient is added to the water, and the carbon has already become saturated with a similar compound, it may either allow the new toxin to pass through, or it may dump some of the similar toxin already held, resulting in a toxic spike in the water. Such an occurrence can be deadly. At best, it will retard or halt breeding. – G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2005 Return to top of page
Cheap Filters …
In the produce section?
By Donna Recktenwalt
Looking for a way to set up filtration for a new tank (or a bunch of tanks) for very little money? Here’s an idea that has been used successfully by a number of aquarists.
Rather than spending a lot of money to purchase the number of foam filters or plastic box filters you need, why not look to the produce section of your local grocery store? Instead of throwing them away, why not put those covered, clear plastic, slot-sided containers that are used for strawberries, blueberries, etc. to another use?For each Filter you’ll need:
- A clear plastic slotted container with lid.
- Something heavy, to keep the container on the bottom of the tank – a few pebbles, marbles, or some coarse aquarium gravel.
- Some aquarium charcoal (optional).*
- Filter medium.
a) a handful of “polyester fiberfill” (used for stuffing pillows) from your local fabric store, or
b) some open cell foam. Best is that recycled from an old filter. If using foam from another source, be certain it hasn’t been chemically treated – some foams contain mildew preventatives, etc., which can harm your fish.
c) a couple of handsful of lava rock (from your local garden store).* - An empty fine-mesh plastic bag, such as those used for onions; or an old pair of pantyhose or stockings.
Assemble the Filter:
1. Thoroughly wash all components in hot water.
2. Place a shallow layer of something heavy (marbles, pebbles, gravel, etc.) on the bottom of the container.
3. Stitch (or knot) one end of the mesh or hosiery to create a flattened pouch. Fill pouch with aquarium charcoal, then stitch or knot the other end. Place on top of the gravel/rock.
4. Top with a wad of fiberfill, a piece of clean, open-cell foam cut to fit, or the lava rock.
5. Insert an airline into the filter assembly, feeding it through one of the slots on the top or side, and positioning it near the bottom of the filter package. Add an airstone if you like, but this isn’t essential.
6. Connect the airline and adjust flow as required.
Be sure to run the new filter in an established tank for a while, or "seed" the new tank/filter to assure establishment of a good bacterial colony.
Like others, these filters require regular maintenance. Remove the media (foam or fiberfill) occasionally and rinse out sludge; rinse or replace charcoal; and rinse any excess "gunk" from the gravel or lava rock. Then reassemble and return to use. That’s all there is to it!- Note: Both aquarium charcoal and Lava rock are very light and often tend to float. Lava Rock is also porous and sharp-edged. You’ll need to wash and wet them thoroughly and confine them for use.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2005 Return to top of page
Chloramine
We all know that Chlorine and Chloramine can prove deadly to our fish. Those whose water does not come from municipal supplies rarely need to worry about chlorine and chloramine. Those of us who get our tap water from a public supply need to know how to counter the dangers posed by these chemicals.
Removal of chlorine from your municipal tap water is easy. Just use a good water conditioning agent, or let the water "sit" for a day or two, and most of the chlorine present in the water will dissipate.
Removing chloramine from water to be used in aquaria is another matter entirely. A highly stable organic compound formed when ammonia combines with chlorine, chloramine will not dissipate naturally. Since many municipalities now add chloramine to public water supplies in an effort to make the water we drink safer and more pure, water for aquaria must be treated with a conditioner designed specifically for its removal. Products such as Stress-Coat, Chlorine and Chloramine Neutralizer, etc. work well.
If you’re not certain whether your water contains chlorine or chloramine, you can contact your local municipal water supplier for the information, or you can simply play it safe and always use a combination product for aging your aquarium water.
It may be a bit of bother to use such neutralizing products and to let your water age, but your fish will thank you for your thoughtfulness.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – October 2003 Return to top of page
Cleaning the Freshwater Aquarium
There are many pitfalls in cleaning aquaria. We’ve all heard horror stories about those who cleaned a fishtank so well (even down to using bleach to disinfect all part of the tank and décor) that all the fish died.
Bernard Harrigan suggests the following steps to help prevent succumbing to these pitfalls.- ASSESS YOUR TANK
Before you start cleaning your tank, see what needs to be done. Check out the fish. Are there any missing? Do they appear clean and disease free? Are fins torn, ripped or tattered? If you have catfish, are their barbels ok? Are the plants clean and healthy? Is equipment clean and operating properly? Is the water murky, yellowish, or full of suspended matter? Is the hood or cover water-spotted or encrusted? If the fish are in trouble, you need to determine the reason. The number one cause of fish illness is stress. Start by testing the water. In most cases, a good tank cleaning/ water change will solve the problem. - CLEAN OFF EXCESS ALGAE
It’s almost impossible to remove all the algae from a tank, and you don’t really want to. Algae aids in ammonia removal, partially masks equipment and tubing, and some fish love to eat it.
Using your implement of choice (an algae pad, an old credit card, a one-sided razor blade), clean the inside front and end panels of the tank. Using your fingers or a soft cloth, gently wipe off the algae on plant leaves, removing any leaves that are heavily overgrown. Clean off the heater tube, the filter tubes and the hood. Clean excess algae off rocks and decorations.
If your tank is overrun with algae, reduce the hours of light it receives, either by leaving the lights on for a shorter time period (10 hours is a good maximum), or if the tank is near a window, by moving the tank or shading it.
If you overfeed your fish, the rotting excess food contributes to algae growth. Cut back on the amount of food you give your fish and add plants that will compete with the algae for any available nutrients. Floating plants will compete for light, too. You could also add a known algae-eater, such as a Bristlenose Pleco or Ancistrus catfish. - VACUUM THE GRAVEL AND DO A WATER CHANGE
Vacuuming the gravel and removing debris-laden water are done at the same time. If you remove debris but leave the old water, it can trigger an unwanted (and dangerous) ammonia spike. Before you start, unplug the filter and heater. Move decorations and rocks out of the way. Work carefully around the plants; you don’t want to harm them or disturb their root systems. Trim off any dead or dying leaves.
As you clean the gravel, dig into the substrate as far as you can. Make sure the water is draining properly – if you have sufficient flow, the gravel at the intake end of the vacuum tube will be swirling vigorously before dropping back out. Clean only half the tank at one time; more could trigger an ammonia spike. When you’re through cleaning, add any new plants and return the decorations to their places before refilling the tank. - CLEAN THE FILTER SYSTEM
Every filter is different, but three basic types of filtration are currently in use.
Mechanical filtration removes solid waste by running the water through a coarse sponge, filter floss, etc. Whenever you do water changes, rinse out the filter material in aquarium water to remove excess debris.
Chemical filtration adjusts the water chemically, without the benefit of bacteria. Carbon is most commonly used, but resins, pumice, marble chips, even peat moss, may also be used. Be sure to replace the filter medium regularly, especially carbon, which will eventually leach back into the aquarium the toxins it has trapped. In a tank with carbon in the filtration system, yellow water is a clear indicator that the carbon needs changing. Note that if your tank contains driftwood, or if you use peat or blackwater extracts, the water will also be tinted.
Biological filtration utilizes helpful bacteria to break down ammonia. Whether the filter media is ceramic “noodles,” bio-balls, sponge, etc., it should be rinsed of extra debris whenever you do a water change. - REBUILD AND RESET-UP
Use aged tap water to refill the tank. Chlorine will dissipate naturally when water ages, but if your water contains chloramines (a combination of chlorine and ammonia), you’ll need to use a commercial dechlorinating agent. You may also want to add a tonic such as Stress-Coat, which helps protect the fishes’ slime coat. Make certain that new water is in the same pH and temperature ranges as that in the tank.
Restart the filter, heater, and any other equipment, checking to make certain they are operating properly. - CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE TANK
Start from the top. Clean the hood and light, inside and out, removing spots and encrustations. Clean the outsides and front of the tank. Never spray any type of cleaner directly on any part of the tank! If you use a glass cleaner, spray on a soft cloth or paper towel, then use that to clean the glass.
That’s it! Done monthly, this procedure should keep your tank looking good and your fish in good health. You accepted the responsibility for taking care of these living creatures; how long and how well they live is directly related to the care you give them.
[Step 7 not given in The Reflector-Ed.]Reference: Harrigan, Bernard. “Seven Steps to Cleaning Your Freshwater Aquarium.” Originally published in Modern Aquarium, newsletter of the Greater City Aquarium Society, November 2003. Reprinted in part in The Reflector, newsletter of the Central New York Aquarium Society, May 2004, Vol. 27, No. 9.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – July 2005 Return to top of page
Color Variation in Killifish – It’s Nothing New
Most of us have grown used to seeing killifish that are "normal" – red-tailed Nothobranchius patrizzi, Aphyosemion sjoestedti with orange tails, brown-bodied Cynolebias whitei. But we are also no longer surprised by fish that are somewhat different from the norm for their species – Aphyosemion australe in red and gold forms, as well as the original brown; Nothobranchius guentheri in a variety of forms – xanthic (lacking black pigment), blushing or blue (lacking red pigment); Fundulopanchax gardneri in "gold" and "albino" forms; Aplochileus lineatus in gold.
Most such color "sports" are discouraged by killie fanciers, who tend to prefer the original "wild" forms. However, other color variations do occur among killifish. Many of them are well documented, or reported by reputable observers, although few have been maintained in the hobby. These include:A piebald sport of Aphyosemion geryi Abuka.
Cynolebias whitei Albino, which supposedly occurred among stocks being bred to supply the “instant fish” market of the ‘60s (killie eggs in peat; add water, instant fish).
A strain of albino yellow F. gardneri.
Albinism is one of the more common “sports” that can occur in our tanks. According to James Langhammer, long director of the Belle Isle Aquarium (Detroit), an albino occurs about once in every thousand fish. Since albinism can occur for several reasons, some albinos are stronger than others and the strain proves more robust.
Other variations occur occasionally too: unusual numbers of black spots on the body, variations in caudal and fin coloration, or changes in the shapes or sizes of fins. Just look at the wide variety of color and pattern variations available among the guppies, swordtails and platies. All those variations were developed by breeders working from “sports” that occurred in their tanks.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2001 Return to top of page
Cleaning Planted Tanks
We all know that vacuuming the gravel in tanks is an important maintenance task, as important as regular water changes. But what to do if the tank is heavily planted, or if the gravel may contain eggs, or baby fish that you wish to save?
"I don’t think there’s a way to gravel vac without getting some eggs and fry," says Cathy Carney. "I run the wastewater into a bucket, then visually check for fry, using a flashlight. I usually don’t check for eggs unless I really want more of the fish, just net out the fry if I see any." Alternatively she dumps the wastewater through a fine meshed net, then searches the gunk for eggs.
"When I have babies in a tank I often use my gravel vac with a panty hose leg stretched over the large opening," says Dennis Heltzel. He then siphons with lower pressure than usual, keeping the outflow end higher than usual to slow the flow, and watches for fry that get caught. "This doesn’t remove much debris," he points out, "but is very effective for a water change…. I focus on water changes and leave the detritus until the fry are older and can avoid the siphon more effectively."
"Make a smaller version of the gravel vac," suggests Steve Halbasch. "I use empty plastic film canisters (clear is preferred, but black works) and 1/4" or less ID tubing. Cut or drill a hole in the bottom of the film canister the same diameter as the OD of the tubing. Place the tubing through the hole and you’re done." Because this version is smaller, the suction power is less, and being smaller, you can easily move it around plants and other objects in the tank.
"One way to ‘clean’ a tank with eggs or fry is to just leave the ‘gunk’ (or some of it) in place," says Donna Recktenwalt. "Baby fish often hide in the debris, and there are lots of microorganisms in the mulm that the fry can feed on." As for protecting the fry, just put a fine mesh net beneath the outlet end of the siphon, then when you are done, rinse the net out in the fry tank to release any fry that were caught. Most will come through the experience just fine, as long as the water flow isn’t too strong.
If the fry containers are fairly small, scooping the water out with a clean plastic cup and pouring the water through a net to capture any stray fry may work for you.
Eggs can be recovered from tank debris by swirling the outlet water in small batches in a clear container. The eggs, being heavier, will sink more quickly than the detritus, and can then be collected with a net or siphon. This takes some time, but if you really want or need the eggs, may be a way to harvest gravel for eggs that might otherwise be lost.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2003 Return to top of page
Designer Killies?
We’re familiar with many of the numerous "designer" fish available to the aquarium hobby – fancy goldfish, guppies in their numerous color designs and finnages, balloon mollies, veiltail angelfish, the many color forms of discus, "painted" glassfish–and more recently, the genetically enhanced Glofishã , a modified form of the Zebrafish, or Zebra Danio (Rerio danio).
Among killifish breeders the intent is to maintain species as closely as possible to their original, wild forms. Although occasional sports do occur, on the whole killifish fanciers breed for the betterment of the species, not for the commercial trade.
For some time now, commercial fish breeders in Singapore have been producing the gold form of Aplocheilus lineatus (the Golden Wonder) and Jordanella floridae (the American Flagfish) for the hobbyist trade. Recently, they have developed a Short-bodied Flag Fish. This may be good for the breeders, and perhaps for the aquarium hobby as a whole, but what if some of these specialty forms or genetically modified fish or their offspring get into habitats that suit them, or into their natural waters?
Probably, say the experts, not much.
The chance of a domestically bred fancy form of a species getting back into the species’ natural habitat and successfully reproducing is doubtful at best. In nature, those individuals that are different, that stand out, that cannot move as quickly, etc. soon become prey, leaving few if any offspring behind. Even if such a fish did survive and reproduce, the enhanced features would soon disappear into the gene pool, just as dogs allowed to breed indiscriminately revert in several generations to the base type.
So perhaps we really don’t need to worry about Short-bodied Flag Fish or GloFishã at all. And perhaps, now that major breeders have succeeded in breeding a fancy variety of one killifish species, they’ll try breeding some of the other attractive ones for the commercial market, thus exposing more would-be aquarists to the advantages and beauty these fish have to offer.
And that thought isn’t all that bad.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 2005 Return to top of page
A Few Things That I’ll Bet You Didn’t Know You Needed …
Every aquarist knows that there are basics you must have in order to successfully keep fish.
Water.
Water conditioner, to neutralize chlorine and chloramine.
A container. Usually – but not necessarily – an aquarium.
Gravel and plants (both optional, depending on the type of aquarium and the fish), and, of course, fish.
A cover is useful, to reduce evaporation, and to keep the fish inside the aquarium and potential predators (and children’s fingers) outside.
You’ll need a net to catch your fish, and fish food.
Most tanks have a light, for plant growth and to better view the fish. Many people add a timer, to automatically turn the lights on and off.
A filter keeps the water moving and traps debris and waste materials, keeping the water clearer. Depending on the filter system you choose, you may need an air pump, airline tubing, and gang or connection valves.
A thermometer is often useful, and a heater will help to maintain the temperature.
That pretty much covers the essentials, but there are a few other items that many fishkeepers find useful.
A bucket, for those required water changes. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Any watertight plastic bucket with a capacity of 1-5 gallons (depending on how much weight you can carry) will do just fine. Just be sure to wash it out thoroughly before you use it the first time.
A test kit is a good thing to have on hand, to monitor water quality and check for causes when problems crop up.
A siphon hose is helpful when doing water changes. This is simply a length of 1/2" or larger tubing, cut to a convenient length. Fill it with water, block both ends with your fingers or thumbs, then insert one end in the aquarium to be drained, and the other end into the waste container, located at a lower level. Remove your thumbs and the water will flow. You can add a gravel vacuum at the intake end. This is simply a wide length of plastic tubing that can be pushed into the gravel. The swirling action of the water in this section lifts and removes debris; the heavier gravel drops back into the tank.
You may need a scraper for keeping the inside glass clean. You can purchase an algae pad for this purpose, or you can use a single edged razor blade or one of your expired credit cards.
One of the most useful items around aquaria may be a turkey baster. Use it to fill the siphon tube when doing water changes, to feed live or thawed brine shrimp or worms (add water to make a thick liquid or thin slurry), or to move baby fish (assuming you can catch them). In a big tank you may have to net fry first, then remove them using the siphon or a plastic cup. Tiny fry are delicate, and will do much better if moved in water than if lifted out of the tank with a net.
Aquarium salt is a good general tonic to have on hand. To dole it out, keep a measuring spoon handy.
Chlorine Bleach is always useful. Borrow some from the laundry area and dilute it with water to disinfect aquarium equipment. Be certain to rinse items thoroughly and completely air dry before use; bleach residues can kill fish.
Undoubtedly as you get more involved in the aquarium hobby you’ll find even more items that you find useful around the fishroom – eyedroppers, miscellaneous jars and plastic containers, air line clips, airstones (diffusers), a marker pen – the list goes on.
Next time you’re around other fishkeepers, ask them what items they wouldn’t do without!– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003 Return to top of page
Filter Floss …
a good addition to your fishroom
A useful material that many killikeepers never consider for use in the fishroom is filter floss. If you’re an old-timer, you remember the fiberglass floss that we used to use in filters, and how difficult it was to handle. You probably even remember getting bits of the material into your hands and fingers, where it itched and acted like splinters until eventually working its way out.
We’ve come a long way since then. However, filter floss is still with us, but in a different, much more user friendly form. We’re talking about polyester fiberfill, the material used to fill pillows, easily available in most craft, yarn, or fabric stores for a minimal price.
It’s cheap, versatile, wonderful stuff!
"Floss has endless fishroom uses," points out Wright Huntley. "Plugging bottles of cultures, filling box filters, wiping algae off glass are only a start.
"Whether in the form of bats that can be cut to size, or just torn-off wads from the kind sold for stuffing pillows, I think folks don’t realize what a terrific spawning medium polyester fiber can be," says Wright.
European breeders have long maintained numerous "extinct" species of pupfish (which are illegal to keep in the U.S.), using a wad of poly fiber on the tank bottom as the preferred spawning medium. The slightly amber eggs are easy to see in the white floss.
Wright says that he also rolls a sheet of coarse plastic canvas (1mm+ holes) into a cylinder, stuffs it with floss and caps the ends with PVC pipe cap. "This makes a superb spawning trap for Lampeyes [and other fish] … that like to spawn in crevices. Placed in a current from a power head, the eggs are out of reach and don’t get eaten, but do get lots of oxygen."
An additional use is to lay thin (1/4-1/2") layer of poly over the filter plate in an undergravel filter. Topped with fairly fine sand, filter floss produces an unusually effective biofilter without clogging the filter plate.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003 Return to top of page
The “Filth Factor” in Killifish Tanks
Every killikeeper has his/her own idea of what constitutes a good killifish tank. From "squeaky clean" as practiced by some of our European hobbyists, to "filthy," we all have our own individual methods and preferences as to how clean a tank should be.
The fish don’t usually care, as long as their basic needs are met – good food, sufficiently clean water, enough room, and suitable cover – plants, mops decorations, etc.
According to the "Komarak Filth Factor Index," a tongue-in-cheek measure of tank cleanliness vs. the resulting quality of the fish, the more attention and cleaning efforts expended by the fishkeeper, the greater the decrease in quality of the resulting fish.
This may be a humorous explanation of why some killikeepers do well with tanks that are less than pristine, but it does point out a basic truth: the fewer objects or items you have in a tank, the more effort it takes to keep the tank functional. A bare tank with only a filter requires more effort to keep clean. Sludge, mulm, and decaying food must be removed from the bottom, and water changes must be conducted regularly. Bacteria growths on the tank walls and bacteria blooms in the water may occur more often.
Making a tank hospitable to the fish by adding a substrate (usually gravel) and some plants goes a long way toward making the fish comfortable, and thus productive. Gravel provides surfaces for beneficial bacteria, which aid in maintaining water quality, and provides a "bottom," making the fish feel more secure. Plants provide cover and hiding places for the fish; utilize nutrients from the water, thus aiding in keeping good water quality; and maintain microfauna on their surfaces which provide food for fry. This biological action, aided by the benefits of mechanical filtration using a foam or undergravel filter, goes a long way toward keeping the tank stable and in good condition for longer periods of time.
For most killikeepers, plants of choice include the Cryptocorenes, the Aponogetons, Anubias, Java Moss and Java Fern, all of which are fairly hardy and enjoy the lower lighting levels preferred by those keeping killifish. For environments with higher light levels, Najas Grass and Hygrophilia are often used. — G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2004 Return to top of page
Fish Have Personality? Yep!
Sometimes we encounter a fish that has an unusually aggressive personality, one that runs counter to the usual behavior for its species.
"I remember a local female A. schioetzi – back in the 70s when they were called christyi," says Scott Davis, in a message on the Killietalk mail list. "Males of the strain popular then tended to really drive their females ... [so] they were at a premium. Ron Coleman reluctantly gave me his extra female with the warning that she had annilhilated his male. She was fairly husky … [but] I figured no problem, I’ll put her in with two males. After I had disposed of the dead males I gave her, with cautions, to someone else, whose males proceeded to get beaten up."
Personality changes have long been seen in spawning cichlids and other fish, but spawning behavior may not be the only reason for compatibility/incompatibility issues.
Most fish are "better behaved" when well fed and given plenty of room, lots of hiding places, with excellent quality water at the lower end of their temperature range.
The presence of females can have a direct effect on behavior. Males that will get along fairly peacefully in a single sex tank will often begin to spar (and perhaps actively do battle) if females are introduced.
Males may unexpectedly decide to set up a favorite spawning spot and defend it against all comers.
Fish raised together as fry tend to get along better than fish that are mixed together when they are older.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2003 Return to top of page
Some of the “other critters”
Freshwater Shrimp
We may keep aquaria primarily for the beauty and fascination of the fish and plants, but we all know that there are any number of other living creatures that share their aquatic habitat, both in captivity and in nature.
Some we couldn’t do very well without – the beneficial bacteria that form the foundation for the biological filtration cycle, for example. Some are nearly always present. Even in the best-kept aquaria you’ll often find Oodinium spores, tiny flatworms, and some type of snails.
Some creatures sneak in when we aren’t looking closely enough – hydra, predatory insect larvae, leeches.
Although few fishkeepers are willing to provide them precious tank space or run the risk of losing valued fish or fry to possible predation, there are also a number of other creatures that will live quite happily in aquaria – clawed frogs, newts, large decorative snails, crayfish, and freshwater shrimp.
Aquarists are probably most familiar with the Brine Shrimp, Artemia salina. These have long been a mainstay food for tropical fishes, in both their adult and larval forms.
There are also a number of freshwater shrimps that can make interesting aquarium inhabitants, either alone or in the company of fishes. The following aer all fairly small, moderately active, and feed solely on decaying plant matter, thus posing no danger to fish. In actual fact, the fish may endanger the shrimp, considering small enough specimens as a potential snack.
Many aquarists are already familiar with Gammarus, or Ghost Shrimp. These little fellows, slightly larger than adult brine shrimp, are often fed to fish. They will live happily with small peaceful species of fish, feeding on debris and swimming vigorously around their environment.
One aquarist has found that a Ghost Shrimp can be a valuable ally when incubating killifish eggs. Lok Kwek Leong places Aphyosemion australe (AUS) eggs, which he has found to be subject to fungus, on stands of Java Moss to incubate, then adds a Ghost Shrimp to the container. The shrimp "clean" the eggs, picking them up and eating the tiny particles attached to them, but not harming the eggs. The accumulating shrimp droppings on the bottom of the container seem to cause no problem, and more eggs incubate successfully for him with this system.
We discuss Glass Shrimp and Grass Shrimp (both Palaemonetes sp,; pictured above) together, since they are similar in size, habits, and availability, and are often confused, both by dealers and by aquarists. These little shrimps are avid scavengers that busily search the substrate and plants for food. They have fairly small pincers so pose no danger to small fish, and may even be cultivated by the aquarist. Keep them in groups, in either shrimp-only or community tanks containing nonaggressive species. They prefer a pH of 6.8-7.4, with water temperatures of 74ºF and above. Be sure to provide plenty of plants and hiding places, since stress can lead to illness.
Commercially, these shrimps are raised in fairly large numbers, with the males and females kept together. Egg-laden females are removed weekly and placed temporarily in fine mesh baskets in a grow-out tank. After their larvae have hatched, they are returned to the main tank. Larvae are fed on algae and rotifers at first, then baby brine shrimp and flake food.Resources: Lok Kwek Leong. “How I incubate Lyretails’ eggs.” http:www.killie.com/Incubating2.
Purser, Philip A. “Spineless Wonders.” Aquarium Fish Magazine, December 2001, pp. 18-27
Rosenqvist, Mark. “Grass Shrimp Culture.” Freshwater and Marine Aquarium, August 1993.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2005 Return to top of page
Garlic for Fish?
The healing properties of garlic are well known in humans, but use it for fish? Recent studies seem to indicate that it can be beneficial.
Fishkeepers around the world have been experimenting with garlic as an addition to fish food. It has been shown to eradicate intestinal worms in Discus, to stimulate immune systems, and to reduce or eliminate whitespot and velvet. Experiments with Ecosystem’s Garlic Elixir, when mixed with flake food and used on Rasbora myrnae and R. maculata (both delicate species) reduced the infestation of whitespot in three days, and cleared it in a week.
Anecdotal reports indicate that garlic can also be effective on marine fish. It may prove beneficial for Koi and Goldfish, and is beneficial when added to the treatment regimen for fish being treated for other diseases.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003 Return to top of page
Don’t ever say that fish aren’t smart…
Hunting Strategy
Gary Elson reports that at one point he had too many Pterolebias longipinis, so put some in with a group of Apistogramma cacatuoides.
Everyone got along fine, until the Apistos spawned.
"The female (never male) Pteros would drift at the surface in a four point, nose in position until they were motionless above the cichlid fry.
"Then they would drop, one at a time, into the gaggle of cichlid fry, grabbing a fry and drawing the mother’s attack as their sisters dropped from other angles.
"It was a wolfpack hunting strategy – coordinated and deadly. The timing of the attacks was perfect."— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – April 2001 Return to top of page
Hydra Revisited
No matter how careful, from time to time every aquarist is visited by the pest known as hydra.
Although unsightly, hydra seem to do little harm in tanks with grown fish. In fry tanks, however, they can be a real problem, because they not only compete with fry, but also will eat fry.
Freshwater hydra are fairly small, seldom reaching 1/4 inch long, with a long, slender base and threadlike arms that extend and retract. They occur in various colors–white, gray, green, or brown, depending on the species and on the symbiotic algae they contain. They also vary in their number of tentacles and budding sites for vegetative reproduction. Hydra feed on microscopic or very small live foods, including baby brine shrimp, daphnia, and the occasional small fish. Reproduction is both sexual (eggs/embryos) and asexual (budding).
Hydra are easily introduced to or spread among tanks. They can be transferred on anything that has been in an infested tank: nets, plants, filters, thermometers, suction cups, air lines, live foods, even, possibly, fish. Hydra cysts are highly resistant to adverse environmental conditions.
Fortunately, there are a number of possible control agents for hydra, both natural and chemical. The following are a few of the potential control measures.“Natural” Control Measures
Heat will kill hydra, but the high temperatures required (100°F for 1 to 2 hours) forces removal of fish and plants, and “won’t ensure against recolonization from resting eggs,” according to Brian Skidmore.
Predatory Fish include various gouramis (especially Trichogaster tricopterus), the livebearers Limia perugiae, and Heterandria formosa (the Least Killifish), fish of the Botia and Betta species, and some of the dwarf cichlids. South American Ramshorn Snails have been reported to eat hydra. “Three or four of them about dime size will rid a 10 gallon tank in a week, and completely clean up the tank in three weeks,” says Charles Harrison, although others have reported less satisfactory results.
Salt is easily available in the fishroom, and many killikeepers routinely add it to their conditioned water as a general tonic. However, for hydra control salt levels may become toxic to fish and/or plants. “Salt for 7 days a 3.0 ppt works well if your fish are not salt sensitive,” says Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.
Chemical Means of Control
Alum sulfate is commonly used to put the crunch in pickles, but according to Roger Sieloff, a 10% solution will kill snails and hydra without killing plants (if they aren’t exposed to it for more than a half hour or so). “Think of it as ‘sheep dip,’” says Roger. “Take the fish out of the tank first … unless you like pickled herring.”
Ammonium Nitrate may not be practical for many fishkeepers, since it is a chemical/fertilizer that is usually available at local feed stores in 50 lb. bags. However, Brian Skidmore reports that “at a dosage of 1/4 tsp. of granules per 10 gal of water (half this dosage for sensitive fish–start at the lower dosage if you’re not sure), this treatment was effective if repeated in one week after a 30% water change. Caution, overdosing will kill your fish.”
Aquarisol is good against hydra if you double the recommended dose of 12 drops to 10 gallons of water. “The 24 drops to 10 gallons hasn’t hurt my Java moss or fish in the several years I’ve used it,” reports Ross Cronkhite. The hydra “will close up within an hour; 24 hours later if they haven’t fallen off the tank I dose again and they totally disappear.” After that, Ross runs a charcoal filter for 24 hours.
Bausman’s Fish Tonic is readily available at aquarium supply stores and is easy to use, at a recommended dosage of 1 tsp. per gallon. “I started using Bausman’s Tonic and since then, I have not seen one hydra,” reports William Wasserman. “I guess it works!” The “tonic” is actually recommended as a general additive in small doses. “This stuff was fantastic,” enthuses Harry Kuhman. “No problems at all with any fish and it dealt with hydra every time I ever had a problem. Instructions said it would take 3 days to clear the tank of hydra and it did exactly that.” Retreatment is sometimes required to destroy newly hatched hydra which were resting on the tank bottom.
Bleach is readily available in any supermarket. “It works great, but you have to take down the entire tank and start over for it to be successful,” says Brian Skidmore.
Clout, a commercial product, has also been recommended as a hydra treatment. However, Brian Skidmore reports that “using this medication, I over-treated, killing some of my fish.” Copper Sulfate. Most invertebrates and some killifish are extremely sensitive to copper compounds, particularly Nothobranchius and Cynolebias. “I’m a great fan of copper sulphate,” says Andrew Broome. “It’s a pretty blue color and it kills things, dead.” He used a dilute copper sulphate solution (very pale blue color) on a tank that was more hydra than fish, and kept adding it until the snails were dead. “Then I added a bit more, left it for 24 hours, and did a 100% water change.” The fish were transferred back; the plants survived without any problems, and no more hydra were seen.
“You could [also] use a commercial copper mixture designed for curing oodinium infections, or add a couple of copper pennies (not the newer zinc-clad ones) to a 10 gallon tank,” says David Keller.
Freshwater Copper Safe (by Mardel) is supposedly safe for fish, but not so for all snails and plants. It will kill hydra.
Cure by Aquarium Products is a combination of Formaldehyde and Malachite Green. “One drop per gallon, followed by another treatment daily until the hydra are gone is safe, in my hands,” advises Harry Specht.
Fluke Tabs will “kill hydra without hurting the fish or the plants,” reports John Wubbolt.
Formaldehyde is by far the most highly recommended chemical treatment for hydra. The best treatment is 37% drug-store formaldehyde, administered at the rate of about 3-5 drops per 5 gallons every other day for at least three or four doses. Formaldehyde usually works without harm to either fish or plants and is absorbed quickly by plant debris, mops, filter floss, etc., so no carbon filtering is needed to remove it. It only lasts for about two days in the tank before breaking down or being absorbed. “The first treatment cases the hydra to close up for a while, but then to respread,” says Wright Huntley. “The second and third treatments are needed to be lethal, and maybe even one more time.”
“Hydra killing is safe and easy,” says Charles Harrison. “Three drops of 37% formaldehyde solution per gallon will kill off even the heaviest infestation without bothering either the fish or the plants.” His method?
1) Change the tank water, all of it.
2) Add 3 drops of 37% formaldehyde solution per gallon.
3) The next day or the second day, change the tank water again.
4) Watch the tank after brine shrimp feeding and repeat procedure if needed.
Heavily planted tanks or tanks with undergravel filters may take three treatments to be successful. Overdosing (more than 5 drops per gallon) should be avoided."
"Two drops per gallon of 37% formaldehyde is safe for fish and is used by many public aquariums as standard quarantine protocol," according to Rick Haeffner of the Denver Zoo.
Quick Cure (Aquarium Products). A simple treatment available to anyone within reach of an aquarium store. "This is a combination of formaldehyde and malachite green. One drop per gallon, followed by another treatment daily until the hydra are gone." This treatment "is safe in my hands, and saves all the trouble and expense of acquiring a bottle of 37% formalin and needing only a few drops for the treatment," says Harry Specht.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2001. Return to top of page
It’s in the Genes….
A Quick Course in Inheritance
Not too long ago, a question was asked on the Killietalk Mailing List about inheritance of the factor for blue tails in Nothobranchius guentheri.
"It is probable that the blue tail color is due to a mutation in a protein that makes the typical red pigmentation in the tail," Eric Lund replied. "A male with two copies of this mutated gene would fail to produce the red tail pigmentation, thereby unmasking an underlying blue tail color....
"The bluetailed mutation is recessive, which means that if you continue to line breed you will get only males with blue tails. If you cross a blue tailed male to a female of the normal aquarium strain you should get only males with red tails in the next generation (F1), but the following generation of offspring would be 25% blue tailed."
In clarification, genetically each parent contributes a single set of genes to their offspring, resulting in two sets of genes in the young. Designating "R" as the normal (dominant) gene for red tail, and "r" as the recessive gene for non-red tail (blue), the following results:
1. If you breed a blue tailed male ("rr") to an aquarium strain female ("RR"), their offspring will all be "Rr" (red tailed, carrying the blue recessive factor).
2. If you then breed the resulting fry ("Rr"), brother to sister, you will get 25% "RR" (pure red tail), 50% "Rr" (red tail, blue recessive), and 25% "rr" (pure blue tail).
"The trick to fixing these sorts of strains," says Eric Lund, "is to remember that the females carry the genes too, but they do not show what their phenotype is. If I had a killie strain with a recessive trait that popped up fairly frequently and I wanted a true breeding strain from it, I would do the following:
1. Isolate each female separately in a spawning tank.
2. Breed each female only to males showing the recessive trait.
3. Collect and label the spawns from each female separately.
4. Raise the offspring from each female in separate, labeled containers.
If the trait you’re selecting for is from a single recessive gene and the mutation is common enough that you had at least one homozygous recessive female ("rr"), her male offspring should all be the same. Fish from containers where all the males show the trait will breed true.
If all the tanks have only males of the normal phenotype, then you didn’t have any homozygous recessive females as breeders. This is because the gene is quite rare and you didn’t have enough females.
If tanks of offspring from separately bred females have males with both phenotypes, then the trait you are selecting for is not due to a single recessive mutation, and other tactics are required to produce a strain that will breed true.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2001 Return to top of page
Judging Killifish (1)
You may have wondered, when attending a killifish show, just how one pair of fish is selected a winner over perhaps dozens of others in its class, and just who actually judges these fish and determines which are better?
"Judges," says Charlie Nunziata, past Chairman of the AKA Judging Committee, "are highly experienced killie hobbyists" who have expressed an interest in becoming judges, who have been certified by the Judging Committee, and "who have examined ... thousands of pairs of killies." They are encouraged to read everything available on killifish in order to keep current, and to study killifish whenever they have the opportunity.
Specimens are judged with respect to the characteristics of their kind. Many species have significant characteristics that are well known, such as the tri-lobed caudal of the Blue Gularis, or the fin extensions on Aphyosemion australe. A judge will look for those characteristics. "The ideal [specimen] … is the one that best expresses the size, shape, color and behavior expected."
Strong, healthy, well matched, damage-free and vibrant specimens will score high, regardless of variations in color pattern. Both the male and the female of the pair must be healthy and compatible, leading to the assumption that given the chance, they will breed.
The experience of the judge is paramount. The AKA Judging Program attempts to guide judges by providing a well designed pointing system, which requires judges to focus on specific characteristics, then total the points awarded for each. The often subtle deficiencies on a given fish will determine its ultimate point score.
Of the 100 available points that can be awarded to a pair of fish, 11 relate to color and pattern, 40 to condition and compatibility, 21 to body size, shape and condition, and 28 to non-color related fin features.
The Judging Program consists of four documents: a Judging Standard; Judging Certification; a New Judge’s Guide; and an Annual convention class list of species. The judging process and accreditation of new judges are maintained and implemented by the AKA Judging Committee.
There is no formal training program for new judges, but potential judges are regularly certified by the Judging Committee. Those who wish to become judges may either judge a class (or classes) at a sanctioned show and have their scores compared to the actual judging scores; or they may take a judging test from a certification slide set prepared by the Judging Committee.
For those who would like further information about becoming accredited as a judge, contact the American Killifish Association at www.aka.org. — G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2002. Return to top of page
Judging Killifish (2)
Basically, judging is common sense, says Charlie Nunziata, an accredited AKA judge. "The goal of the AKA is propagation of killifish.... The central theme of the judging system is that the candidate should be representative of the species." Thus if the fish are representative of their species, are healthy, and the pair is compatible with a high probability of breeding, they will score well.
"The point system is designed to reward such a candidate," Charlie says, "and thereby encourage the entry of good breeding stock that represents the species."
In addition, "representative of the species is exactly what it says." Candidates should have proper fin and body shape, color pattern, and attitude expected for the species. Males are awarded a total of 55 points; females 35, and 10 points more are allotted for pair characteristics. So the female should be the proper size in respect to the male, and of equal quality.
"What will always score high is the vibrant, ‘brimming with health’ ... pair," Charlie adds.
"We’re not looking for the biggest fish," adds accredited judge Dave Price. "Some people seem to think that the biggest, or brightest, fish should always be the winner. Because the judging guidelines stress the overall breeding potential and compatibility of a pair, this isn’t always the case. A younger, stronger, better matched pair of fish will often win over an older, bigger pair simply because they have more breeding potential or the partners are more evenly matched."– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2003 Return to top of page
Just how big is that aquarium?
To calculate the capacity of any size of rectangular aquarium, multiply the length times the width times the depth (in inches), then divide by 231. That will give you the capacity in gallons.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2003 Return to top of page
Keeping Records
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
In some manner, all of us need to keep at least some records.
At the very least we need to document what fish we have, and which eggs and fry belong to which species. The precise form of these records may vary. It may mean simply marking the tanks, or it may involve maintenance of a master computer record. Most aquarists (and their needs) fall somewhere in between these two extremes.
At the very least you should document the species name, the collection code and the strain information, and where and when you got the fish. Additional information may include spawning and hatching dates, sales information (what you sold, when, and to whom), and maintenance and breeding information (water conditions, breeding procedures, foods, tank sizes, etc.)
How to keep it all straight?
The answer varies, but generally falls into two separate tasks: identifying the individual tanks, fish bags and batches of eggs and fry, and documenting acquisitions and dispersals. The first involves marking or labeling, the second keeping some sort of log or diary.Marking the Tanks, Bags, etc.
“In my chemistry and biology labs,” says George R. Trumbull, “we always used grease pencils. … [They are] good for marking tanks as to species etc. and can be removed with acetone or nail polish remover. Non-toxic and no fumes.”
“If I get fish in labeled bags, I peel off or cut out the label and attach it to the new tank,” says Wright Huntley. Later, “I print [computer] labels with the basic name, collection code, etc. on regular Avery mailing-label stock. I leave as much white space as practical. Each tank gets a label, with a pencil note of source/date, etc.” He then uses copies of the labels on hatching containers, bags of peat, storage bags, tanks, etc., “and always for sale or club auction. Most importantly, the labels always have my name, phone number and e-mail address, so whoever buys [my fish] has a way to reach me.”
If the ink on the labels isn’t waterproof, you’ll need to tape over the label to prevent smearing.
Magic Marker on Scotch “Magic” tape is another solution, Wright adds.
If you aren’t using adhesive labels, marking bags is another matter. Most aquarists use fine-tipped “Sharpie” markers, which are clear and don’t smear when wet. However, there may be some transference of chemistry into the bag. “Sharpie” markers, points out Lee Harper, “smell like isopropyl alcohol…. I will write on an outer bag, but not on one containing the fish.”
Broad-tipped markers may add toluene to the water in the bags. Test a bag before using it by filling with air and tying off, then writing all over with the marker. Let it set for a while. Open the bag and smell the air. If it has an odor, don’t use that marker on a bag for fish or eggs.
General Documentation
Long-term documentation may include 3×5 cards, diaries, loose-leaf notebooks, or computer spreadsheets.
“I’ve always just kept a diary where I write down the events that happen daily,” says Doug Karpa-Wilson. “Some of these factors change daily (temperature, pH, appearance of diseases or breeding behaviors), while others change weekly or never (diet, plants)” etc. However, since all information is in chronological order, it may be difficult to search for specific information.
A different approach is documentation by species. “I maintain a loose-leaf notebook,” says Donna Recktenwalt, “with a page for each species. Basic information goes there – where I got the fish, how many, how much I paid, what kind of tank conditions I’m keeping them in, any show results. I update these notes form time to time, including observations on the fish and their status in my fishroom. This helps me track my successes (and failures) more accurately.” She keeps track of incubating annual eggs by using a card file, with a 3×5 card for each bag of peat; the cards are then sorted and stored by the date due for wetting.
“I use a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet,” says Lee Harper, “to keep track of breeding species, eggs in water, eggs in peat, fry, etc…. [B]ut what you do is less important than how diligent you are about keeping the records. The best breeders I know use paper, i.e., a log book.” If you put the information all down when you get the fish, then update the records as you breed or sell them, it doesn’t matter what medium you use. “The secret is in writing it down immediately and completely.”
What Information Should You Keep?
Most aquarists agree that at the very least you should document:
1. Species/location/collection information (before the label gets wet)
2. Date received
3. Information on the source (or sources)
Then, if you like, you can add:
4. Maintenance conditions (water, plants, food, etc.)
5. Breeding data (basic data for BAP, breeding techniques, etc.)
6. A record of eggs collected and dates
7. Hatching and rearing information
8. Sales or trades, to whom, what and when
9. Show results— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, January 2002 Return to top of page
Killifish – You can do it!
But it may take some time, and some patience
What advice do you give to a beginning killikeeper?
As aquarists, we take responsibility for the fish in our tanks and make an effort to provide them with the best environment we can. Many of us have been aquarists for some time, and can keep fish healthy and happy. Others know very little, and this is a hobby with a "learning curve."
So what do we tell beginners?Pick a fish you like. Acquire that fish, work with it, learn what it prefers and requires. Work with it until you get it right.
Never buy a fish you don’t really want simply because it’s easy, or a “good starter fish.”
Start with healthy fish from a reliable source.
Don’t let yourself get discouraged if you have failures, or lose fish. We all have.
Get as much good advice as you can, but never substitute it for your own good judgment. You’ll need guidance and good sources of information, not only for the difficult species, but for some of the easy ones, too. Ask questions, read all you can. Killikeepers are generally knowledgeable, well-intentioned, friendly people, glad to answer questions and aid newcomers.
Remember that patience can, sometimes, make up for ignorance. If you work hard, failure can breed success.
Don’t be afraid of difficult fish. If someone has been able to keep them, you should too, given enough time, effort, and resources.
Fish that are easy for someone else may not be for you; likewise fish that are difficult for someone else may be easy for you. Everyone’s fishroom is different.
The best way to learn is to not give up on the fish you really want. You’ll learn much more by staying focused on a species or two and doing them right than by trying every different species that comes along.
— GCKA Newsletter, July 2002 Return to top of page
Killieponds: Summer Vacation for You and Your Fish
By Catherine Carney, Greater Cincinnati Killifish Association
For many of us, killie-keeping is done in aquariums year round. We dutifully change the water, turn on the lights, catch or culture all sorts of live foods for the fish to eat, and net out fry.
For those of us with outdoor lily ponds, summer can be an opportunity to take a vacation from some aquarium care by sending our fish to the equivalent of summer camp. "Camp Killifish" can be as simple as water filled tub on the porch or as elaborate and your imagination and wallet can create.
Placing killifish outside for the summer has advantages for you and for your fish. First, you receive free mosquito control, since most killifish will greedily eat them (and many other live foods). Second, the fish will often spawn more, grow better, and often show better color in pond conditions because of the constantly available live foods and the more stable water quality due to the large volume ponds have when compared to tanks. Third, fish room maintenance may go down since there are fewer fish indoors. Finally, many killifish make attractive pond residents during the warmer months.
However, there are also some pitfalls to keeping killifish outdoors. First, there are fish predators such as frogs, snakes, and raccoons which will find your fish a tasty treat. Second, there is also the risk of disease and parasite infestation (but that is true any time we feed wild caught live foods). Third, most of the killifish we keep are warm water fish, and the time they can spend in the ponds is limited to the warmer months. Fourth, killifish eggs can be easily transferred from pond to pond on nets and equipment, especially if you have small children that like to "fish." Finally, most killifish prefer still water, so pond filtration or aeration must be done with minimal water flow.
Also, keep in mind that not all killifish are suited to outdoor ponds. Species of the genera Aplocheilus, Cyrpinodon (native pupfishes), Fundulopanchax, Fundulus (native topminnows), Jordanella (native), Pachypanchax, and Rivulus are good candidates for ponds. Choose large, husky, plant spawning species for pond culture and keep the small, secretive or dirt spawning ones indoors. Species that are top swimmers or brightly colored or both tend to make more attractive pond residents simply because they are easier to see.
Want to give it a try?
Probably the easiest pond for many people to set up is the "muck bucket." Muck buckets are plastic tubs holding approximately 15 to 20 gallons that can be purchased from many farm supply stores. The come in a variety of colors and usually have a rope handle on each side. They have the advantages of being cheap (usually less that $20) and weatherproof. They have the disadvantage of being deep relative to their width.
To set up a muck bucket pond, choose a sunny level location. A sunny porch or deck is ideal as long as it can support up to 400 pounds of water and plants. Position your bucket, fill with water and allow the water to sit for a day or two to warm to the surrounding air temperature. Add plants (a tub this size can hold a small water lily and some anacharis or other aquatic plants), wait another day, check the water conditions (temperature, hardness, etc), and add fish. Remember that killifish are jumpers, especially for the first few days in new surroundings, so be prepared to cover the tub with screen if needed while they settle in.
Another easy and cheap option for "Camp Killifish" is the 40 or 50 gallon Rubbermaid water tub, again available at many farm supply stores. Usually costing less than $75, these tubs are virtually indestructible and fish safe. They are usually oval and shallow, with dimensions in the neighborhood of 30" long by 24" wide by 16" deep, depending on the size. The large footprint distributes the weight of the pond over a larger area. A tub this size can be either free standing or included in a garden landscape. Set up is the same as for the muck bucket, but the tub can hold a few more emersed or marginal plants.
Once the fish are in place, be sure to monitor your pond(s) regularly. Check to be sure that the fish are still in it and that no predators (especially bullfrogs) are resident. Check also for water tigers (the predatory aquatic larvae of a water beetle) and leeches (which often "hop" in with the frogs) and remove them if necessary.
Remember to bring the fish back indoors before the weather cools in the fall, certainly before September 30. Often you will find fry and juveniles of all sizes along with the parents, so have some extra tanks available in which to house them.
Cold adapted natives can stay outside year round if the pond does not freeze solid and if stocking rates are light, but it is risky. Adding a stock tank heater or a small pump and fountain will help to reduce the risk.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2004 Return to top of page
Lighting for Killifish
By Donna M. Recktenwalt
Most killikeepers have at some time observed that the same fish, viewed under different lighting conditions, can appear entirely different. Sunlight from a window can transform a usually dull looking fish into a spectacular one; a fish that looks bland in a show tank can suddenly turn beautiful in a flashlight beam.
But what is the best lighting for viewing killifish?
"Many killies get more colorful in subdued light, for some reason," observes Wright Huntley. "I have SJO in my bright plant tank … and they look washed out all the time. Brothers in an overgrown, darker Salvinia-covered tank look brilliant. Survival mechanism? I don’t know."
Some fish need to be seen in reflected light (from the side) to show their true beauty, particularly iridescence. Some fish even seem to vary in coloration by time of day. Some killifish only develop their best colors when they receive significant daylight over long periods.
However, by choosing a good light source, and utilizing a few simple techniques, fish color can be enhanced. Dark substrates and backgrounds help, as do plants, by providing more security (comfort) for the fish, and by providing more visual contrast to the viewer. Many fish (killifish in particular) never do become completely comfortable over light-colored substrates. The use of color enhancing foods can also help.
For best appearance, a combination of ‘sunlight’ and ‘daylight’ tubes seems to work well. Cool white bulbs have too much green, subduing red and blue coloring. Plant and aquarium bulbs may give good color, but you often need a cool white bulb to bring up the brightness, and the greens.
Incandescent lights show killies off fairly well, but produce a great deal of heat. Compact fluorescents with a tri-phosphor work well too, but do require good ventilation to prolong the life of the ballasts.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 1999 and March 2002. Return to top of page
Little Black Bugs … oh, my!
"I’m having a problem with little dark bugs all over the surface of my tanks," William Ruyle wrote not long ago on the KillieTalk Mail List. "Viewed from above, it looks like someone sprinkled poppy seeds" on the surface. "They are mostly black and slow moving." What are they?
"If they’re fairly immobile," replied Dennis Heltzel, "I think they’re aphids." These are common pests in ponds. The "remedy" is to blast them with a hose to wash them into the water for the fish to eat, or to submerge all the floating plants for a while. The aphids will probably be eaten or starve, since they can’t survive under water.
Larry Jones observed that he has conquered his aphid problem by using Riccia in his tanks. "I saw that tanks that had a small mat of Riccia growing did not have aphids. I put Riccia in other tanks infested with the bugs, and within two weeks the aphids were gone."
"Aphids have a huge reproductive potential," Dennis continues, "so you aren’t likely to eliminate them entirely unless you can remove their food source (the emersed plants)…." On the bright side, there are methods of culturing aphids for use as a live fish food (see The Encyclopedia of Live Food, by Charles Masters).
"It’s also possible that the [bugs] … are springtails, but they bounce around a lot on the surface and are more brown than black, in my experience," says Dennis.
"Either way, the fish are probably eating some of them, but they multiply quickly and are somewhat adept at avoiding predation.
"If they’re aphids, they’re probably not causing much harm…. If they’re springtails … they only feed on dead plant material, so they are actually tiny scavengers.
"Either way, the main problem is aesthetics… they are actually providing a continuous buffet for surface feeding fish. Kind of like fruit flies without the mess and bother."— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2003 Return to top of page
Basic Fishkeeping …
Livebearer Killies?
Many killikeepers maintain livebearers in their tanks, in addition to their killifish. To some, this may seem like heresy, but read on ...
"Why is the keeping of live-bearing toothcarps (like guppies) and the keeping of egg-laying toothcarps (killies) so separate?" asks Bob Harvey. "We are all toothcarp keepers."
"Certainly ... [killifish and livebearers are] closely related," agrees Matt Kaufmann.
Killifish are members of the Cyprinodontidae (toothcarps), a family that includes both livebearing and egg laying species. "Some Cyprinodontidae evolved into livebearers (Poeciliidae, for example)," states Oleg Kiselev. "Some evolved into killies."
"In the taxonomic literature killifishes are often considered to be all Cyprinodontiform fishes," states Tomas Hrbek. "In the hobby, killifishes are egg laying Cyprinodontiforms, while livebearers are livebearing Cyprinodontiforms. Livebearing has evolved independently on at least three occasions, in the Goodeids, the Poeciliids, and the Anablepids.
"Although Goodieds are ‘relatively’ related to pupfish (the closest relatives of Goodeids are the springfish – Crenichthys and poolfish – Empetrichthys from Nevada), guppies are not very closely related to Aphyosemion or Nothos or other ‘standard’ killies. They are a lot more closely related to Goodeids, the pupfish, Aphanius, and Cubanichthys," he continues. However, these relationships tend to be somewhat fluid. Some killies (Aplocheilichthys and Aphanius) are now being considered part of Poeciliidae, and, notes Scott Davis, "[Parenti] placed Crenichthys very close to Goodeids."
In all livebearing fishes, fertilization is internal and the developing fry are retained by the female until birth. In viviparous species, such as the Goodieds, the young are nourished by the female until their birth; in ovoviparous species, such as the guppy, fertilized eggs are simply retained while they develop.
"C. melanotaenia has internal fertilization," says Oleg Kiselev, "but the egg is laid by the female some time after it’s been fertilized. This technically qualifies them as livebearers, but they are also undeniably an annual killifish species." Others believed to lie in this slightly gray area between the egg layers and the livebearers are Tomeurus gracilis and C. brucei.
"Cynopoecilus and Campellolebias (both closely related to Cynolebias) have internal fertilization," adds Hrbek, "but that does not make them livebearers. Internal fertilization and livebearing, the production of fully developed offspring rather than eggs, are two entirely different things."
"By definition viviparity is the internal development of the embryos either with (viviparity) or without (ovoviparity) additional nutritional input from the parent," agrees Eric Lund. "Annual killies with internal fertilization deposit the eggs in the substrate where the embryos commence development."
"There are numerous cases where eggs are internally fertilized," adds Hrbek, including some South American characins. The eggs are "subsequently deposited, with most if not all of the development taking place outside the mother’s body. This is not viviparity."
So killifish, even through they may practice internal fertilization, are not livebearers, although some of those livebearing species that we so enjoy are their very close relatives.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001 Return to top of page
Low Cost Filter Floss
Thanks to Monty Lehman and Gary Meyers
Need filter floss but don’t feel like paying the premium prices asked in your local aquarim store?
Go to a Wal-Mart, K-mart, or your local craft or discount store, and buy polyester batting (pillow stuffing). This is the same material that filter makers have been using for years, and is usually available in large bags in the crafts section, often near the yarn. Polyester material is preferable for filer use, but Polyester/Dacron works well too.
"Small clumps of the stuff [are also useful] to wipe the inside glass of full tanks," says Monty. "I can then toss it away with no possibility of cross-tank contamination."— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2002 Return to top of page
Love ‘em or Hate ‘em – Malaysian Livebearing Snails
Malaysian Livebearing Snails are something you either love, or you hate. There seems to be very little in-between opinion.
For those with planted tanks, they are beneficial, stirring up the gravel and eating a great deal of the debris from the substrate.
Lee Harper has reported that instead of the Pond or Ramshorn Snails he usually keeps in fry tanks to clean up excess food and provide infusoria, some Malaysian Livebearing Snails found their way in with the Java Moss. The containers with the Malaysian snails produced fry that were 3 times or more the size of those without them. Lee observed this with several different species and in several different containers with the same species.
Other killikeepers have less benevolent feelings about Malaysian Livebearing Snails.
For those trying to spawn and raise fish, they are a curse, avidly eating fish eggs.
How to eliminate them, short of dynamite?
Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher), says Tyrone Genade. "Get a pair, spawn them, and just keep dumping the fry into the tank with the snails. Feed sparingly and wait. By the time the kribs are adults they will have cleared the tank of the Malaysian Livebearing Snails. About 40 young kribs can clear a 1.2m tank in 2 months, provided the substrate is fine enough for the kribs to dig in, he says.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2005 Return to top of page
Meetings getting a little dull?
A Few Ideas to Try
No matter how active, occasionally fish club meetings are a little dull. A little business discussion, some personal visiting, a few fish swaps, maybe a mini-auction … ho-hum. Different clubs handle their fish auction/exchange in different ways. Perhaps you need to try something different.
Here are a few ideas to help you jump start things (and perhaps sidestep that sticky issue of trading/selling some "protected" species).Bring an Item to Auction, or Pay a Fee. Ask each member to bring at last one item for auction. This may be a bag of fish, some plants, fish food (live or not), a book, or some other aquarium-related item. Determine a fair split – the first dollar to the club, the rest to the seller, for instance. If a member doesn’t bring an item for auction, they pay a fee of, say, $1.00.
Have a Bag Swap. Each member must bring in an item for swap. This may be fish (a pair, or a group of fry), a fish related item, plants, etc. but all items must be presented in unmarked paper bags. Fish should, of course, be properly labeled on the plastic bag inside the paper one. Each member (seller) bringing an item receives a number or a raffle ticket for each “bag” he brings, and can then choose a bag to take home for each ticket received. No one is allowed to “peek” into the paper bags. The unmarked bag you choose is what you get.
Have a Trade Table. Members bring in items they wish to trade. These are auctioned. The proceeds are then either paid out in cash, or the members can use their “credit” to purchase items. This cash/credit can also be used to purchase items from the “club store,” if your club has one.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2005 Return to top of page
Beginner’s Corner …
The More Things Change …
Keeping killies can be a most enjoyable, and a most frustrating hobby. But sometimes, the more things change, the more they stay the same. Killi-keeping is a good example. Newcomers are often overwhelmed by the number of species available, and by the new techniques they may have to master to keep these fish. Returnees are often just as confused; names change, techniques and hardware change, etc. But many things remain the same.
"I took 25 years off to raise a family and build a company," says Wright Huntley. In his absence from the hobby, a number of things changed: there are more fish, more varieties, and more species available. We now have Reverse Osmosis water, frozen foods, and all glass tanks to simplify our fishkeeping. But "the basics haven’t changed much." Fish still require good water, good food, and comfortable, secure quarters.
However, says Wright, "wait until you discover how many cheap, small plastic containers are available to do what was expensive 35 years ago!" What had to be done in small aquaria then, can often be done in disposable plastic now.
"Surprise 2 is that we know less about what our fish are called than we did in 1960! Science has dramatically influenced nomenclature" with many fish moving to an entirely different genus. Fortunately for fishkeepers, most of the species names have remained the same. Aphyosemion may change to Fundulopanchax, but gardneri, and the method for keeping the fish, are still the same. Fortunately, killikeepers have long identified fish by location or collection codes, so we now rarely destroy good strains due to inadvertent hybrid sterility.
A typical conversation today might be, "How are your GH2s doing?" "Just fine, but the GBN 88/10s are not giving me any eggs. Do you have any M’Bonge’s left?" Greek to most folks, but not to killikeepers.
"The changes in names drive newbies (and old returnees) absolutely wild," Wright continues, "but it eventually starts to make sense…. We can keep folks off balance by using Scheel’s three-letter abbreviations, too," he adds, tongue in cheek. "If SJO and AUS start to make sense, we [can]make up a few of our own …"
Maintenance techniques among killikeepers vary, too, dependent on water conditions, the species of fish, feeding regimen and frequency, and water temperature and parameters.
Many breeders find that plants and gravel provide good cover for the fish. "I think that many of the fish I keep are healthier and breed better in natural setups," says Cathy Carney. "Since I have hard water … there are some species (Aphyosemions) that just don’t do well for me…. [Others] find that [they] do well with some species of fish and not with others." It may take trial and error to find which fish do best for you.
When breeding, some killikeepers pick eggs; others let fry hatch out in the tank. Some prefer bare tanks, others like their tanks so filled with plants (usually Java Moss or Najas Grass) that they can rarely see the fish, and often find fry swimming happily with the adults.
As for life expectancy, some fish (such as some of the annual species) are short lived, but many killies will reach 2-3 years without problems, and will remain fertile most of that time. In other species, such age just marks the beginning of their full growth and productivity.— GCKA Newsletter, April 2003 Return to top of page
Killifish in Mosquito Control
Killikeepers have long known that mosquito larvae are one of the very best live foods. Especially in warm climates, where there are mosquitoes there are problems with public health. Mosquitoes are natural vectors for such diseases as Malaria and Yellow Fever.Species for Mosquito Control
Perhaps the most readily recognized and successful mosquito control agent has been the much maligned Gambusia, which have been introduced into numerous habitats and have effectively disrupted mosquito populations. Unfortunately, they have also often supplanted native fish populations.
Other species of fish have been tried as potential mosquito control agents with varying degrees of success: common and grass carp in China, Nothobranchius species in Africa. In the U.S., in both California and in Hawaii, experiments have been conducted for potential alternative mosquito control species.
In China, beginning in 1983, the government tested the effectiveness of two kinds of carp as mosquito control agents in rice fields. The fish were added as fingerlings after the rice was planted, and harvested for food or moved to ponds at the end of the rice growing season. Results were positive. Protein food stocks increased significantly, and the incident of both mosquitoes and mosquito borne diseases dropped dramatically.
Unexplained Nothobranchius Distribution
In Africa, from World War II until the 1960s, the World Health Organization (WHO) introduced various Nothobranchius species into local waters, often at air bases, for mosquito control. Apparently very few of these introductions resulted in established populations, but those that did have lead to confusion regarding which populations are native, and which introduced.
In India, reproducing introduced populations of Nothobranchius have been reported.
Introduced Killifish in Hawaii
In 1967, the Hawaii State Department of Health instituted a stocking project utilizing the Redtail Notho, N. guentheri. The species failed to become permanently established, presumably because Hawaii doesn’t have the discrete wet and dry seasons required for proper development of eggs. At least one species of Cynolebias was also tried and introduced, as was Aplocheilus lineatus. None became permanently established, although some records exist for the collection of A. lineatus and A. guentheri, so they must have become established for at least a short period of time.
Apparently livebearers and cichlids outcompete most other fish, due to their reproductive capacity and (in cichlids) parental care.
Argentine Pearlfish in California
In California, considerable research work was conducted using Cynolebias bellottii, C. nigripinnis, C. whitei, and C. alexandrii for mosquito control. The first two species showed the most promise. Research showed that a dry incubation period was not required for production of C. nigripinnis fry, but that it did improve the hatch rate. The length of time that eggs can remain dry without loss of viability varies among species. In several ponds at the University of California, C. bellotti fry hatched out following pond draining and raking, several years after the ponds were last used for raising them.
In California, C. whitei, C. nigripinnis and C. bellottii all survived through the summer in rice fields. However, three years of work in Butte County failed to result in reproduction of the fish. It was hoped that a cycle could be established, similar to that found in South America, so that fish would be present to eat the mosquito larvae without yearly planting.
Annual fish are not currently approved for field introduction in the U.S.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2004 Return to top of page
A Few Myths …
About Killifish
Let’s face it. No matter how beautiful, no matter how perfect a candidate may be for the conditions found in amateur home aquaria, no one species or family of fish is going to suit everyone’s tastes.
However, for some aquarists, of all the available fishes, killifish come close to meeting the ideal.
Still, there are a number of myths wrapped around these little jewels. Among them:Killies are dull
Killies are boring
Killies are short lived
Killies are difficult, especially to breed
Killies are impossible to find
Think Easy …
But much of the above isn’t true. Killifish are no more difficult than many of the other species commonly available in the hobby today.
Think small. The smallest species rarely reach an inch; the largest (and there aren’t very many large killifish) may reach 6 inches.
Think small tanks, too. A pair of some species can be happy in a gallon bowl, or a multitude can live in a 10-20 gallon tank.
Think easy. Killifish are usually not very demanding. Normal household temperatures. Minor filtration, although clean water is important. Dark substrate, to better show off their colors. Lots of plants for cover and security, nothing unusual in the way of lighting.
Think hardy. Some of the killifish are as hardy as goldfish, or more so. After all, they come from a variety of difficult habitats, from pools and streams that dry up completely part of the year, to barely wet riffles in the rainforest.
But about those myths …
Killifish are Dull
Of the hundreds of species, sub-species, and collection locations for those species available to the hobby, there are fish to suit almost anyone’s tastes, from small, nearly colorless fish with an iridescent sheen to the most brilliant of red, blue, yellow, green and gold. Like songbirds, many of the males flaunt bright colors; most of the females are uniformly dull in appearance.
It must be admitted, though, that some killifish definitely are dull in appearance. Why do you think even Rivulus fanciers call them “ugly brown fish”? Other killifish rival the brightest saltwater species–observe some of the more brightly colored Nothobranchius, or Aphyosemions.
Killifish are Boring
Most killifish are fairly small and fairly quiet in nature. If you’re looking for flashy, active fish, perhaps killies are boring. Most of them are fairly small and fairly quiet in nature. They won’t sail around your tank like clipper ships in full sail, as angelfish or discus will. Neither will they form flashing schools that glitter and gleam, like some of the tetras.
Most killifish tend to hover quietly in the shelter of plants, or work their way carefully through the dense tangle of underwater growth. Pretty fish, but hardly equivalent to a Broadway Show. However, for the fish watcher who enjoys studying and admiring the subtleties of his fish, killies can be a delight with their flashing colors and their often vibrant courting displays.
Killies are Short Lived
Compared to what? Many species, especially those that are annuals in their native habitats, do live fairly short lives–in the wild. These species (which include the African Nothobranchius and the South American Cynolebias, among others) have adapted to an environment where their home pools dry up completely for at least part of the year. When the pools are once again filled with water, the eggs hatch, the fry develop, spawn, and die when the pool dries up again. In the aquarium, some of these species can rival the more common aquarium fish for longevity, living up to several years.
The non-annual species have life spans that may reach several years.
Killies are Difficult–Especially to Breed
Not entirely true. Certainly, some killifish are difficult, but many are very hardy, being quite content in conditions a goldfish might find suitable. They don’t usually require large tanks, fancy filtering, or special care to thrive in aquaria. Others are extremely delicate, and require exacting conditions simply to survive.
As for breeding, many species will breed freely given a tank with lots of plant cover, regular water changes, and a regular supply of good food. Others require specialized techniques to induce spawning, or for incubation of the eggs.
Killies are Impossible to Find
This, at least, is close to true. Very few pet stores or aquarium shops sell killies. This is mostly due to the matters of supply (having them available in large enough numbers to warrant attention by the trade) and education (few “average” aquarists, and even many knowledgeable retailers, don’t know what killifish are).
Amateur hobbyists/breeders, and a very few semi-professional ones, produce most of the killifish available in the hobby. Unless you have a contact through one of the local or national general aquarium or specialized killifish organizations, you won’t see killifish very often. Although many species are fairly easy to breed, the process is often labor intensive. Very few killifish species reproduce in numbers large enough, or in a manner simple enough, to make them candidates for the large-scale culture practices utilized for many of the more popular aquarium species, such as tetras, danios, platys, or guppies.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2004 Return to top of page
Natural Setups
Attractive Tanks
By Cathy Carney, Greater Cincinnati Killifish Association
Many of us keep our killifish in permanent setups. The fish breed and grow up in the cover provided by spawning mops, java moss, or najas grass. While this bare bones setup is certainly functional, easy to clean, and provides adequate spawning and growth opportunities for our fish, it is usually not aesthetically pleasing. While the killifish are an adornment in any tank, the properly set tank will not only provide our fish with a functional, healthy habitat, but it will also provide us with a pleasing display.
One nice thing about killifish is that many of them are small enough to be comfortably housed in ten or fifteen gallon tanks, although many species will be just as happy in larger tanks or even outdoor lily ponds. Remember, however, that some species, many of them annuals, are quite adapted to shallow water and will exhibit stress in deep tanks.
We will use a standard 40 gallon breeder as our first example. The dimensions on this tank are 36 inches long by 16 inches wide by 16 inches high. Two additional pieces of eight inch by twenty inch by ¼" plate glass were cut at a local glass shop. They were installed diagonally from each front corner to the back wall, giving a wider front viewing area that narrows to the back, using silicone cement. One side was made water tight and the other was raised off the bottom by about ¼". This accomplished two things: it lowered the water level to eight inches in the tank, and it provided planting areas at either end.
The bottom of the sealed planting area was filled with lava rock and potting soil with a layer of sphagnum moss on top. The other was filled completely with lava rock. A power head was installed at the back of the aquatic area with tubing running across the back of the aquarium, over the lava rock and splashing onto flat rocks laid on top of it. The lava rock was planted with Spathyphyllum (which does well in the boggy conditions provided by the water splashing onto the lava rock) both for decoration and for water filtration. Water splashes onto the rocks laid on top of the lava rock, trickles through the lava rock and also flows over the restraining glass. This provides both mechanical filtration (via the lava rock) and biological filtration as the bacteria on the rock and the roots of the plant use the ammonia and nitrates in the water for their own growth.
The power head and heater were hidden in the back of the tank using rocks and driftwood, and more driftwood was laid across the top of the planters to hide the tubing. About eight pounds of gravel was placed in the front half of the tank, while the part behind the rocks and driftwood was left bare. Plantings of Cryptocoryne wendtii and Anubias barteri were placed along the front edges of the rocks, driftwood, and sides. Since the plants in this tank have low light requirements, a single strip light was enough to keep the tank lit.
As a result of the power head, this tank has a definite current and consistent water quality because of the Spathyphyllun filtration, making it a good choice for many species of lampeyes.
Our second example will be a standard 15 gallon tank placed on end in a fish room rack. The dimensions are 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches deep. A corner box filter was placed midway back along one side of the tank and a large chunk of lava rock (six inches on each side and about four inches high) was placed in front of it. Another chunk of lava rock was placed in the back corner. Ten pounds of gravel was spread evenly over the bottom of the tank. Cryptocoryne balansae was planted in front of both rocks and Dwarf Red Lotus (Nuphar species) was planted just behind the box filter. Java moss was allowed to colonize both chunks of lava rock.
Since the plants in this tank, particularly the Red Lotus, have higher light requirements, the tank is lit with the shop light suspended just over the water above the rack. With this type of lighting the lotus will develop not only underwater leaves but also leaves that reach the surface and retain their red color. Najas grass could be used in place of Java moss in this tank since it also has higher light requirements.
Killifish, especially Rivulus species, will hover in the water just under the surface leaves, darting out from cover to take food from the surface. Many species of Aphyosemion, Fundulopanchax, Aplocheilus, and Rivulus will find this setup suitable.
The third example is, perhaps, not a natural setup type tank, since it features, among other things, a ceramic alligator and neon green gravel. However, it is still fish friendly despite being kid-designed.
The tank is a standard 10 gallon with dimensions of 20 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches high, standard glass canopy, single bulb strip light, and a power filter in one corner. As mentioned already, the bottom was covered with about eight pounds of neon green gravel, and a set of plastic tank terraces was placed along the back, rising nearly to the top of the water. A ceramic alligator, ceramic snail, and tank-safe glass marbles were added for additional decoration.
Planting was purposely kept simple and consists of hardy plants, since children are not always consistent about tank maintenance. Spathyphyllum was planted along the back of the tank and grows out all along the back, rising above the glass canopy. Najas grass was allowed to fill most of the tank, providing shade and cover for the fish, and Java moss colonized most of the gravel areas. There is also a thick cover of duckweed (courtesy of an enthusiastic child collecting daphnia out of a lily pond) covering much of the surface.
The current occupants, a pair of Fundulopanchax occidentalis, seem at home in the tank. The thick cover offered by the najas grass provides protection for the females when the male becomes too aggressive during spawning. It is also easy to put a small container of peat in the tank as a spawning medium, although this does affect the attractiveness of the tank, at least in the mind of the child that designed it.
The final example will use a 20 gallon high tank, and it is still in the planning stages. Dimensions on this tank are 24 inches long by 12 inches high by 16 inches high. The depth is greater than many killifish find comfortable, although Aplocheilus lineatus can be comfortable in a tank with these dimensions. While the other tanks in this article were set up with the goal of providing attractive looking breeding tanks, this tank will be a show tank, with the goal to seduce visitors into the wonderful world of killifish as they enter the front door.
The current plan is to drop the water depth to ten inches and then plant Bromeliads or other humidity loving plants above the water line in pockets (perhaps of coco fiber) that are siliconed to the glass. The tank will continue to use the standard glass canopy and double bulb strip light that already exist, and will use a power head and tubing to trickle water over slate siliconed to one back corner of the tank. A large chunk of driftwood and two large sandstone rocks will hide the power head and any other in tank mechanics. More rocks and driftwood will be piled in the corner with the slate to disperse the trickle of water as it reenters the tank.
Planned plants for this tank include Cryptocoryne aponogetifolia and Dwarf Red Lotus for the back and sides of the tank, Anubias barteri and Cryptocoryne wendtii for the middle, and to leave bare much of the front of the tank. Bacopa monnieri and Spathyphyllum will probably be used on the rocks at the back corner of the tank and will be allowed to grow as the bog plants they naturally are.
Planned fish are Pachypanchax omolonotus or Aplocheilus lineatus Red (if they can be found), with possibly some small bottom dwelling species that would be found with these killifish in the wild. Non-killifish in the tank will mean that fewer or perhaps offspring will be produced, but remember that the goal of this tank is show, not breeding. If breeding were the primary goal, it could be accomplished in this tank by making it a killifish only setup.
Hopefully these four examples have given you some ideas for aquascaping some of your killifish tanks. The first three examples given have been up and running and have proven themselves easy to maintain and good for the fish. With luck the fourth example will prove equally low maintenance.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2004 Return to top of page
An Overview of Fish Colors
Thanks to Sarah Wise, on the KilliTalk e-mail List
Fish colors are the result of the presence of several different types of pigment-containing cells. These cells include melanophores (with black or brown melanin pigment), erythrophorees (with reddish carotenoid pigments), xanthophores (with yellow carotenoids) and iridophores (with reflecting crystals).
[A gold colored fish] … almost certainly has a mutation affecting melanophores and melanin production and the gold color is the result of the other pigment cells that are still functional (particularly the yellow xanthophores). Hatcheries deliberately stock rainbow trout that have a similar mutation, which are called "palominos." This situation is similar to albinism in mammals, including humans, except that in mammals there are no pigments that remain, resulting in a white rather than yellow coloration.
If anyone finds a mutant that they think would be of interest to a scientist, either keep it alive or freeze all or part of its tissues (fins, brain, guts) until you can find someone to take it. Either method will keep the DNA and RNA intact until scientific analysis can be conducted.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 2003 Return to top of page
Odors in Your Fishroom?
If you’re keeping fish, you’ll eventually encounter the problem of having an odor (or odors) in your fishroom. Objectionable smells may come from a number of different sources, and an odor that you find pleasant, or at least unobjectionable, may leave others absolutely disgusted.
The first step, if you have a problem with odors in the fishroom, is to take a good, open-minded look around you. The problem may be from one of the fish tanks; a tank gone sour or a dead fish left too long. Or it may be from another source altogether. In the interests of family harmony, good health, and good fishkeeping, let’s look at some of the possible causes.
Do you have live cultures? A living food culture – such as microworms, infusoria, paramecium, grindal or white worms, even fruit flies – that has gone bad can produce a disagreeable odor – sour, musty, rotting, etc. To avoid failure of your cultures and the resulting bad odors, pay attention to them. Feed cultures as necessary, start new ones regularly, and destroy those that have gone bad. (Some gardeners claim that old microworm cultures are much appreciated by rose bushes).
Do you have some old, stored dry or flake food that may have gone rancid? The fats in dry foods are not stable, particularly if the foods are stored in a warm place. If the food has a particularly strong or sour odor, the fats it contains have probably oxidized (turned rancid) and its nutritional value has been compromised. Your fish won’t like it, either; throw it out. Place dry foods in closed jars or sealed Zip-lock bags, and store in the refrigerator or freezer.
Dead fish in your tanks? Shame on you! Check your tanks regularly for problems, and remove and dispose of dead fish promptly, before they can develop really bad smells and foul your tanks.
Have you kept up with your water changes? Tanks that are going stale often develop unpleasant odors.
How about gravel cleaning? Aquarium gravel containing too much decomposing food and waste can develop a potent stench, and if stirred will release lots of sour-smelling bubbles. These are definitely not good for your fish.
Have you checked the filter media, or let the charcoal in your filters go too long between changes? Dirty filters can build up a smelly sludge if left too long unrinsed. Charcoal used too long can even leach toxins back into the water.
Are you sloppy in your water changes? Wet flooring and rugs can develop strong-smelling fungus and molds, which can be bad for you, your family, and your other pets.
Whatever your odor problem may be, there is almost always a cause, and a solution. The trick is to find that cause, and remedy the situation before it becomes unbearable or unhealthy, to either you or your fish.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2005 Return to top of page
Overrun by Snails? Try This …
Sometimes too many snails can be a problem, even for those who like snails in their tanks.
However, it isn’t always necessary to sterilize the tank, or to resort to strong chemical anti-snail treatments.
"When I used to breed killies (mostly australe) casually in planted setups, pulling out the fry from time to time, I used one of two biological control agents to periodically kill down the snail populations," says Bruce Turner. "Those agents are called Gambusia affinis and Fundulus chrysotus." You can put some small ones in with the adult killies or you can take the killies out of the tank for a few weeks while the snail eaters do their job.
The system "works very reliably, " Bruce says. "But I learned early on to use only male Gambusia, or only one sex of F. chrysotus per tank, or else the control agents would eventually kill or outcompete" the killifish.
Tom Payne uses clown loaches for periodic snail control, and says that he is happy with the job that they do. Other loaches will also do a similar job on snails, and many stay smaller than the clowns, which is a bonus for people with small tanks. – G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2001 Return to top of page
Peat and Carbon as Water Treatments
"It has been my observation … that peat has never been given its rightful due as a water treatment," says Charles Harrison. "People point out the ‘dirt’ or ‘mud’ on the bottom of my tanks ... I usually explain that it is left over from feeding white or grindal worms…. [At] changing time I take off most of it unless there are fry in the tank and I can’t get it out without a few fish." He tries to empty and fill each tank weekly, and uses neither RO nor rainwater.
Peat, either in the tank or in a pre-filter, has long been proven to lower the pH of water. "Activated charcoal is a trapping material," he says, used to trap chlorine and other gases, but don’t expect it to remove heavy metals. Most RO units need chlorine removed before the RO filter and have a charcoal canister as a pre-treatment.
If you have a good activated charcoal bed after your peat, the water should be clear, which probably effectively neutralizes the effect of the peat.
To determine what affect peat and carbon filtering would have on his local (St. Louis) water, he ran water through peat, then carbon filtering. Peat had an immediate effect on pH, which dropped from 9.43 (from the tap) to 5.35. Passing the peat water once through a carbon bed resulted in an increase of pH to 7.5. Clearing the peat color from the water required extensive careful filtering, and had no effect on the pH. The samples were then titrated for solids and hardness.
Tap water: Evaporation solids 278 ppm; Hanna dissolved solids 33; pH 9.5; total hardness 10dH, 179 ppm CaCO3.
After peat: Evaporation solids 100 p.m. (difficult to measure, but about half of tap water); Hanna dissolved solids 24; pH 5.05; total hardness 4 dH, 71.6 ppm CaCO3 (about half of original).
After carbon: Evaporation solids 200+; Hanna dissolved solids 31; pH 7.5; total hardness 6.7 dH, 116 ppm CaCO3.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2002 Return to top of page
How One Aquarist Uses … Rainwater
"I have used rainwater for around 40 years," says Al Anderson of Indianapolis, Indiana. His tap water has a pH well above 8, and hardness above 300 ppm. "This is good water for Afrikaans cichlids and Nothobranchius, but not for Angels and the South Americans. I have a lot of tanks and need a lot of water .... Over the years [I have] developed a system for using it.
"I have a large 300 gallon Rubbermaid tub that sits under the downspout of the roof." This collector has a 3/4" fitting on the bottom, with a pipe that goes through his basement wall. The pipe ends with a hose and a float valve that is located in a retired chest type freezer liner. In this is a nylon bag of peat moss, a chunk of hardwood drift wood, two 150 watt heaters, and a Tetra air powered pond filter. "Every time it rains ... the tub and the freezer chest fill up." The water seasons for a couple of days and turns a clear amber color.
For water transfer to his central filter system, Al uses a small submersible pump and hose with a valve and 3/4" siphon tube attached. The central system (which consists of bio balls and cubes, along with a tray containing filter floss) also supplies water for his numerous small (3 gal.) breeder tanks, and many fry containers, most of which contain java moss and java fern, along with riccia and frog bit.
"I try to add 4 tbls. salt for every 30 gallons of rainwater," Al says. When pH drops to 6.4, he lets the system water run through a couple of tanks that have crushed coral in them. Al notes that he also now uses RO water in the rainwater system, adding salt as he does for rainwater.
"This water seems to work well for me on all types of soft water fish," he says.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – April 2001 Return to top of page
Pro-nun-see-a-shun …
Thanks to Jay-Scott Moylan and Robert Cazzulani, among others
How many of us have been utterly intimidated by those long, complicated Latin names? We know that most killies don’t have common names and that using the scientific names is the only way to accurately identify the fish we keep. We know that, but still … it’s daunting to look at the odd collection of letters that makes up Aphyosemion sjoestedti, or Nothobranchius guentheri, without cringing a little.
But we really do need those long, complicated names. With the number of killifish species already known, and new ones regularly being discovered, it would be nearly impossible to keep track without them.
But what if I write it out wrong? Worse yet, what if I say it incorrectly?
Not to worry. We’ve all been there, done that. And no one really knows just how some of those Latin and Greek-derived names were originally pronounced anyway. However, there are a few basic rules that may help you feel more comfortable.
Latin (scientific) names consist of two key parts: the genus name (Aphyosemion, Cynolebias, etc.) and a species name (australe, whitei, etc.) The first identifies the general family to which a fish belongs, based on its taxonomy, scale count, skeletal characteristics, etc. The second identifies a particular group of fish that share a common set of basic characteristics – coloration, behavior, breeding habits, etc. The genus name is always begun with an initial capital letter; the species name is always lower case. Both are traditionally italicized, thus Aplocheilus lineatus. Add to that a location code (indicated when and where they were collected) or a variety designation (e.g. for color), and you get such names as Cynolebias whitei Red, or Pachypanchax sakaramyi Joffreville LM/94.
A little thought can alleviate the fear from many of those Latin names. First, many names are at least partially descriptive. Aphyosemion, for example, means "fish with a flag," referring to the high-carried dorsal fin. Nothobranchius guentheri is named after the collector who first found and described the fish, a man named Guenther. Simpsonichthys constanciae was named after the collector’s wife, Constance.
In general, you won’t go too far wrong if you pronounce every letter or syllable in a name.“c” is usually pronounced like “k” unless it’s the first letter, when it’s pronounced as “s.” Thus Cynolebias is “Sigh-no-le-bee-us,” and Nothobranchius is “No-tho-brank-i-us.” Alternatively, “c” may be sounded like “ch” (as in China) if followed by a y, i, or e. If it’s followed by a, u. or o, pronounce it “k”
“a” is usually pronounced “ah,” thus “Aff-y-o-see-me-on.”
“e” is “ay,” so we have “E-pe-plat-ees.”
“i” may be “ih” or “ee”
“ii”, when at the end of the word, is usually “ee.”
“o” is “oh.”
“oe” (from the Greek) is usually “eh” or “ee”
“u” is “oo”
and “ae” is “eye.”
Classical Latin has the stress on the third from last syllable for long words, although Americans usually place stress no the second from last. If the second and third last syllables are vowels, then you stress the second. Some examples:
Cinnamomeum – Sin-ah-MOHM-ay-oom
gardneri – GARD-nayr-ee (although most folks say GARD-nayr-eye)
Aplocheilus – Ap-loh-KAY-ih-loos
bitaeniatum – Bih-teye-nee-AH-toom
There are a few additional considerations.
“th” is pronounced as “t”
“w” is “v”
Then there’s the problem of location codes and their pronunciation. Location codes are important to further identify the “pedigree’ of the fish we keep. They may be a combination of letters and numbers assigned by the collectors in the field, and often refer to map grids, GPS locations, collectors’ names, and dates.
Many location codes can be fairly easily translated, even by an amateur. The meaning of TAN94/7 is fairly clear and logical (Tanzania, 1994, the 7th location collected). But what about Nsupa GEMHS 00/42? Nsupa is probably a local name; and 00/42 is year 2000, 42nd collection location. But what about GEMHS? Most likely it’s a compilation of initials from those in the collecting party. Guinea CI 2001 F1 offers a different set of questions. Guinea is a location region; CI indicates “Commercial Import”, and F1 denotes first generation from the wild.
See? Confusing, but not impossible to understand, if sometimes difficult to say.
So don’t be daunted by all those strange letters and numbers. Just be certain to document and pass them along when you buy, sell, or trade fish. Other killikeepers will thank you for it.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – February 2004 Return to top of page
Really Cleaning Gravel
Do you like to use gravel in your tanks, but are fearful of what pathogens or unwanted "hitchhikers" previously used gravel may contain? How do you completely and effectively clean such gravel, beyond the usual wash and rinse with hot water method, which is fairly effective at cleaning the gravel of debris, but doesn’t address bacteria, insect larvae, or unwanted snails.
Three basic methods have proven effective for "deeply cleaning" gravel: bleaching, boiling, and baking.Bleaching. Using commercial household chlorine (unscented) bleach at the rate of 1/2 cup per gallon of water, soak the gravel for several days. Rinse thoroughly. Rinse again in water containing a dechlorinator, and let “age” for a few days to assure that any traces of chlorine are gone. This method will eliminate bacteria and most pathogens, but may not effectively remove all Malaysian Livebearing Snails. Empty snail shells in the gravel can be easily picked or rinsed out for disposal in the trash – shells may clog drains.
Boiling. This simple heat method kills organisms living on and in the gravel but the heat may not penetrate fully to the center of each piece, leaving the possibility of some organisms remaining. Place gravel in a suitable container that you can put on the stove or in the microwave. Add enough water to cover the gravel. Boil until you’re certain the gravel is heated through (stir occasionally to aid heat distribution). Cool before handling, and rinse completely before use.
Baking. This technique uses heat to effectively cook any organisms present, but won’t harm the gravel. Rinse gravel thoroughly in water to remove most of the debris, then drain. Place gravel in an oven-safe container and bake for several hours or overnight at 250° F. The hours of baking assure that the heat reaches the center of the batch, while eliminating the risk of boiling the pot dry. Cool gravel, and before use rinse with water to remove additional debris.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2004 Return to top of page
A Few Tips …
Rotating Fish Out of Tanks
To avoid the problem of unidentified fry, suggests Scott Davis, "when rotating fishes out of a tank, if the tank remains pretty much as it was, replace the residents with something totally different." For instance, follow an Aphyosemion with an Aplocheilus, followed by a livebearer, etc. Corys, which are notoriously fond of killie eggs, could also be placed in the tank, and might root out eggs buried in the gravel.
"Of course," he admits, "if you specialize in one group of killies, it isn't that easy." Changeovers may mean boiling or microwaving mops and peat, or boiling gravel.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, October 2001 Return to top of page
A few observations on
Shipping Killifish Eggs
Killikeepers have long known that shipping eggs is one of the best ways to exchange species. This appears to be particularly true at the present, when shipping regulations are becoming tighter, and shippers are sending more packages than ever via commercial carriers that do not provide a temperature and pressure controlled environment.
Some aquarists have found that hatches from shipped eggs prove qustionable, at best.
We always have to assume that the seller packages and ships eggs that are viable, fairly fresh, and relatively undeveloped. This allows for development time before the buyer receives the shipment, and the best possible chance of receiving strong, viable eggs.
However, many eggs fail to hatch upon receipt; some packages even appear to be empty of eggs. In such cases, we need to give the shipper the benefit of the doubt. Even under the best circumstances, things can and do happen to eggs in transit. If you get a shipment of eggs that seems to be less than promised, remember that:Eggs may die in shipment, from cold, pressure changes, etc.
Fry may hatch during shipment, resulting in death.
Eggs of some species do very well when shipped, others do not. There seems to be no real explanation for this.
So if your next batch of ordered eggs arrives and you get less than a satisfactory hatch, it may not be all the shipper’s fault; it may be due to causes wholly beyond either the buyer’s or the shipper’s control.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2005 Return to top of page
Should You Use Plastic Plants?
The answer used to be a resounding "no." But in recent years suppliers have developed lines of plastic plants that look and feel almost "real." Plastic plants are now attractive and safe for aquaria. They will not affect water parameters. Certainly plastic plants avoid the problems posed by real plants – they don’t die, or develop yellowing leaves, or rotting roots; they don’t shed detritus into the tank.
They do require occasional cleaning, and algae may be a problem. But should you use them?
"I have been selling plastic plants both for manufacturers and distributors as well as in aquatic stores for over 20 years," states Bob Wroth. "I have also been breeding fish for about 30 years. I use real as well as plastic plants, and the new silk-like plants for decoration, breeding, and hiding of fish. I have never ... had a problem with plastic plants."
"Plastic plants are sharp edged and not too good for spawning anything but crevice spawners," contends Wright Huntley. "They support no infusoria, but really encourage nuisance algae.
"I have had hard-driving male killies injure females by driving them into the stiffer plastic plants," Wright adds. "Many have sharp edges and mold-release spines that can easily injure smaller fish."
In addition, new plastic plants may give off water-soluble plasticizers. "Have you ever smelled [plastic plants] fresh out of the sales bag? ... I have never trusted the plasticizers used in them to not be unhealthy," he says.
If used in conjunction with real plants, artificial plants can block the light that is vital to plant respiration and ammonia control.
In short, use your own judgment. If you like plastic plants, go ahead and use them; if you don’t, stick to the well-proven selection of live plants for your killifish tanks.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter –April 2001 Return to top of page
Some Influences on Color
Fishkeepers are well aware that color varies among species and varieties of fish, and often between individuals of the same species. Killifish are no different.
Fish color be directly affected by a variety of factors, including health; genetics; lighting; the amount of stress the fish are under; an individual’s place in the group hierarchy; spawning readiness; and what they have been eating.
Health: A strong, healthy fish will usually show good color typical for its age and sex. Fish that are under stress–whatever the cause–will usually appear paler, sometimes to the point of showing almost no color at all.
Genetics: Genetic variability plays a part in color. Within a single spawn of fish, some may show excellent color patterns typical of the species, while others show muddied or uneven color, or atypical patterns. Under captive breeding conditions, base coloration may also change over time. The original base color for Fundulopanchax gardneri (GAR) Misaje was a dark, rich blue. Currently, this variety exhibits a much lighter (although still beautiful) base color.
Lighting: Fish raised in dim conditions usually don’t much like bright light. Those raised in relatively bright light seem to have little or no problems with it. Some species of fish do not display well under artificial lighting, but in sunlight, seem to "come alive."
Stress: Stressed fish–including most fish in shows and those bagged for shipment–show extremely washed-out color. Given some cover and/or allowed to settle down, these "vanished" colors often "magically" reappear.
Hierarchy and spawning readiness: Healthy, dominant males in spawning condition will normally show the most striking coloration, but even that can be affected by lighting conditions and diet. In groups of fish, often only the dominant male will show much color at all, with the subservient males showing little or no gender related color. This appears to be a protective strategy–if a subordinate male doesn’t look like he’s competing, he may manage to avoid attack from other males, and may even breed some of the females himself. This behavior has been well documented among breeding groups of Nothobranchius.
Foods: Brine shrimp has long been known to enhance the reds and oranges in fish, probably due to their beta-carotene content. Colors may also be affected by the use of color-enhancing foods. GAR N’sukka usually shows a medium to dark blue base color, while those fed color-enhancing foods often display a blue-green base color.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2005 Return to top of page
Strange Bedfellows?
"Without realizing it, I had 20 very small Aphyosemion bivitattum Funge fry growing up in a tank with some 5" Fundulopanchax fallax Malende," Norm Ruebsamen reported on the KillieTalk list in May 2002. It was a Fallax Malende breeding setup, and he had placed a pair of Funge in with them to grow out as show fish.
"While feeding daphnia I noticed …[a] 1/4" Funge fry… [It] grabbed a daphnia but it was way too large to eat. While he sat there hanging on to it a 5" Malende male swam out of the weeds and grabbed the daphnia (not the fry, amazingly!) For a split second they were eye to eye until the Funge fry let go and raced for the weeds."
Norm then searched for more fry and found over 20 small Funge in the tank.
"If you have ever seen an adult Fallax Malende eat you would have to wonder how anything that resembles food could survive in the same tank," Norm said, especially when the Malende are 20 times their size.
"What I found most interesting is that I had two successful breeding setups going simultaneously. The Biv Funge adults weren’t eating the Malende eggs that I could collect from the gravel, and the Malende were not bothering the newly hatched Funge fry."
Norm also reports having bred Epiplatys lamottei and BIV Funge together in a planted tank with good success.– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, April 2003 Return to top of page
A Summer Vacation – for your fish?
Don’t know what you’re going to do with all those fish during the summer months? Ted Coletti, writing in Livebearers, publication of the American Livebearers Association in June 2001, has a suggestion.
Take your fishroom outside!
"I call [it] Summer Tubbin’," Ted says. "It’s an easy and inexpensive way to enjoy a ‘pond’ and ‘tropical fish’ at the same time, with minimal space and no landscaping."
The concept is far from new. Aquarium books before 1960 often talk of bringing aquarium fish outside for the summer, in concrete ponds, refrigerator liners, or horse troughs. "Bringing your fishroom outdoors may be a saving grace," Ted continues. "Livebearers and labyrinth fish are the best candidates for summer Tubbin’, due to their small size and minimal oxygen requirements," Ted writes, but killifish often adapt well to the vacation concept, too.
Think "water features," or "fish tubs" for this venture. The least expensive vessels are plastic storage containers. Round or rectangular shapes are the norm, so you can probably find a tub to fit any desirable space in your yard, patio, or deck. Get the deepest one you can find, to ensure temperature and water stability. Light colored tubs will help you spot fry more easily. An attractive option are the round, free-standing black plastic ponds and whiskey barrel liners sold at garden and home improvement stores. Less expensive are the round "laundry tubs" or "ice buckets" sold at hardware stores and beer distributors. With emergent and floating plants, they can be quite attractive.
For filtration, you could use a sponge filter and air pump, but pond plants are more efficient and cost nothing to run. Plants also absorb heavy metals to some extent, to which fish are more sensitive than are humans. Plants also form a haven for fry and a medium for edible micro-organisms. Floating plants provide cover. Water Hyacinth and Water Lettuce are efficient filters and provide spawning sites. Plan to cover 2/3 of the water surface with floating plants, and use the remaining area for submersed and emersed plants. Use gravel topped flower or planting pots for anchorage. For looks, you may want at least one emergent plant in each tub.
All kinds of livebearers can be colony bred in outdoor tubs, and many kinds of killies, too. The author knows of killikeepers who have kept pupfish (Cyprinodon sp.), American Flagfish (Jordanella floridae), various Fundulus species, even some of the hardier Aphyosemion and Fundulopanchax species successfully under these conditions. Some of the Cynolebias family are quite cold hardy and may do well, too.
"Feeding is another advantage to Summer Tubbin’," Ted says. He feeds his tubs once a day with flakes, but admits that he often forgets. The insects, mosquito larvae and microorganisms available to the fish make for continuous daily grazing, and many fish colors seem to intensify during such "summer vacations."
"Here in New Jersey, I set up my tubs around May," Ted reports. He adds water, some dry crumbled leaves, and a pinch of fish food. Plants go in next, after the tubs have had time to age and algae, bacteria and microorganisms have begun to establish themselves. Fish begin to move into the tubs Memorial Day Weekend, when temperatures reach the low 70ºFs. He generally moves the fish back inside around the beginning of October. "That gives me four solid months of ‘Summer Tubbin’." Local climate and the species you select will dictate your own requirements.Reference: Coletti, Ted. “A Summer Vacation for your Livebearers.” Livebearers, The American Livebearers Association, No. 168, June 2001.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2003 Return to top of page
They’re a lot tougher than you think….
Survivor: Killifish Edition
By Catherine Carney, GCKA
One myth about killifish that continues to circulate is that killifish are delicate, short lived creatures. However, there is a host of anecdotal evidence that shows that nothing could be further from the truth.
Most aquarists that keep killifish have at least one experience with finding a damp, dusty, mostly moribund killifish on the floor (yes, most killifish are marvelous jumpers), dropping the fish back into the water, and finding it happy and healthy a short while later. In fact, Jim Robinson from Canada once had a group of Rivulus sp. living in a puddle of water in a damp corner on his fish room floor. However, what about their ability to survive in far less than optimal tank conditions?
Most aquarists do water changes on a more or less frequent schedule, keep the filters running, and replace the light bulbs over the tank when they burn out. However, due to a far too busy schedule last summer and fall, I neglected to do water changes for close to six months. The filters and lights were similarly neglected. Feeding was dry food placed into each tank, with no checks made to see if the fish were eating it or not, or even if they were still there. And the power was out for more than four days after a bad ice storm, with fish room temperatures dropping as low as 62 F before power was restored. Sounds like a recipe for disaster, doesn’t it?
After the power came back on, I took a look at the tanks. Dead plants, brown water from the decaying plant material, and pumps, filters and heaters in need of maintenance. Not a pretty or promising sight.
Interestingly enough, although there were many mortalities, the killifish survived far better than the livebearers or cichlids. When the dust settled and I finally started working on the tanks, I found no live cichlids, only one species of livebearers (Xiphophorus variatus), and nine species or locations of killifish out of a dozen.
Many of these killifish are species that have been in the hobby for decades and have proven their toughness in the hands of aquarists time and time again. But the conditions they found themselves in here were above and beyond the normal challenges to say the least. Let’s take a look at what made it.
Aphanius mento: one lone male was in the tank when things got busy six months ago, and he was still fat and happy when I started doing maintenance again. The water in this tank was relatively clear, but there was a thick growth of blue-green algae on all the surfaces, a sure sign that the water quality was poor, to say the least.
Aplocheilus lineatus: two pairs of fish were in the quarantine tank being treated for a Camallanus parasite infestation. One pair was still alive, although thin, when I started doing maintenance again. The duckweed was ½" thick and the water had yellowed considerably.
Callopanchax occidentalis: one young male was in the tank six months ago, and he was still fat and happy when I started doing maintenance again. Of all the tanks, his has fared the best, with clear water, probably due to the thick growth of Java moss.
Fundulopanchax gardneri N’Sukka: a breeding group of six individuals was in the tank six months ago. Water conditions had gotten so bad in this tank that even the duckweed was on the way out, and the water was tea colored. However, a reverse trio of the fish survived and there were half a dozen or so ½" juveniles swimming with the adults.
Fundulopanchax gardneri Aquarium Strain: a breeding group of about a dozen individuals was in the tank six months ago. The water conditions were similar to the N’Sukka tank, above, with the addition of blue-green algae coating many surfaces. At least two pairs survived and are now producing eggs.
Rivulus agilae: one trio was in the tank six months ago, and the same trio was still fat and happy, although I couldn’t see them until I removed much of the dead and dying Najas grass that was coated with a thick layer of blue-green algae.
Rivulus cryptocallus : a trio was resident six months ago, and I found the male as a crispy critter after forgetting to close the cover after feeding one day. The tank was thoroughly coated with a thick layer of blue-green algae, but both females were fat and happy.
Rivulus hartii Point Redux: a pair approaching three years of age and half a dozen juveniles were resident six months ago, and most of the juveniles and the adult female were still live and healthy. The water was tea colored, with brown algae (probably diatoms) on all of the glass surfaces.
Pachypanxhax omolonotus Nosy Be: five juveniles were in the tank six months ago, and all five fish (all females, unfortunately) were still alive, although thin, when I started doing maintenance again. The water in this tank was tea colored, most of the plants were dead, and blue-green algae had started to coat the surfaces.
So, there you have it, a list of survivors that should convince you killifish are tough. If they can survive and reproduce under the conditions I described, think about what they could do in your tanks with better care.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2005 Return to top of page
Basic Fishkeeping …
The Swim Bladder
We all know what the swim bladder is – or do we?
The swim bladder is a hydrostatic organ that has little to do with respiration, and a great deal to do with the fish’s balance and buoyancy in the water, both accumulating air (gas) released from the blood and releasing it for reabsorption back into the bloodstream.
One of the bits of "folk wisdom" that has long been widely accepted by aquarists is that annual fry which have incubated in a substrate must reach the surface to "get that first gulp of air" soon after hatching, in order to fill their swim bladders, or they will become bellysliders. Although experience has proven that many annual fry hatch better when wet in fairly shallow water, this "gulp of air" theory has been disproven.
The late Dale Weber conducted several experiments that denied fry access to the surface for a period during and immediately after hatching, and found that most fry are able to swim normally without reaching the water’s surface at all.
So how do fish fill their swim bladders?
"Basically, there are two types of fish," says Barry Cooper, "physostomous, which have a connecting duct between the esophagus (the tube connecting the mouth to the stomach), and physoclistous, which have no such connection." In the former case, air can be taken directly into the gas bladder by gulping and forcing the air through the duct. In the latter case, such direct method is not possible and the gases must be absorbed from the blood.
"Modern bony fishes (teleosts), are a very diverse group, of which the most primitive ... are physostomous," agrees Jason Podrabsky. Filling the swim bladder for these fishes can be accomplished by gulping air and forcing it into the swim bladder; gas is removed by "burping."
"Just because physostomous fishes have the direct mechanism," Barry goes on, does not mean that they necessarily have to have that mechanism intact to inflate the gas gladder. "The other mechanism, used exclusively (I assume) by physoclistous [fish] and available to all physostomous fish, is the transfer of gases, mainly oxygen and nitrogen, between the blood and the gas bladder."
Thus, to get back to the problem of bellysliders, any problem affecting the gas bladder itself, the vascular plexus, or the red blood cells which carry oxygen, could affect the ability of fry to fill their gas bladders.
For those who would like to pursue the subject of the swim bladder and gas exchange further, Jason suggests the following resource: Moyle, Peter B. and Joseph J. Cech, Jr. Fishes – An Introduction to Ichthyology, 2nd Edition, Prentice-Hall, New Jersey, 1998, p. 559.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001 Return to top of page
Beginner’s Corner
Things We Forgot to Tell You …
There are many small things that killikeepers know, or do as a matter of course, that you won’t find written in books, or that we may have forgotten to tell you ...On Breeding
If you have just one pair of a species, one of them will almost invariably die or jump to “crispy critterdom” before they breed for you.
A single pair may be virtual “egg machines,” another pair may never provide an egg.
Plant spawners may breed at the top or the bottom or in the middle of the tank or the mop. Some fish have their own individual preferences, too. If you aren’t getting eggs in the top mop you provided, try using a longer mop, or a bottom mop, or some combination of both.
Some fish will eat every egg they can find, and/or their fry. Others will bother neither.
The fish will spawn when they’re ready; not necessarily when you want them to. Some spawn almost all the time, others seem to go in cycles.
Occasionally, there are unexpected surprises – some “annual” fish can be water incubated; many “plant spawners” can be incubated on peat. A few species don’t care whether they’re given mops or peat, and will happily spawn in either.
On Finding and Handling Eggs
Not every egg that is laid is fertile. Not every fertile egg will hatch. Not every fry that hatches will grow to adulthood. Learn to live with these truths.
If you are picking eggs, look for small pale yellow to clear shiny “beads” on the spawning mop. A newly laid egg is extremely soft and subject to damage. An egg that is firm to the touch is safe to pick.
Some species’ eggs are extremely sensitive and should not be handled at all.
A white egg is an infertile egg.
During incubation, a white, fuzzy, cloudy or soft egg is a dead egg, even if it shows embryo development or eye spots.
Finding eggs in peat is difficult, but it can be done. Look for them when you first squeeze out the peat; they will have taken on the least amount of coloration then, and will still be highly shiny. Once they have been in peat for a while they are extremely difficult to see or to separate from the peat.
On Rearing Fry
Not every egg that hatches will (or should) produce an adult fish. Proper care, feeding and water changes will give the most fry the best chance to grow, but don’t be distressed when you don’t raise them all. Nobody does.
Culling is a necessary fact of life. Don’t try to raise the weak or sickly; it isn’t worth the effort, and they won’t be suitable for breeding. At the very least, killikeepers need to cull deformed and weak individuals, for the good of the species.
When handling newly hatched fry, pour the water from the hatching container (including the fry) into a larger container and slowly add fresh water. This will result in less shock than if you moved individual fry into water that’s different to them.
Handle fry gently. They will shock and panic just as surely as adult fish will.
Feed a variety of foods; feed generously but not to excess; feed often.
Keep some Java Moss, a small piece of lettuce, and a couple of snails in your fry containers. They provide infusoria, an additional food source.
Don’t clear all the litter from the bottom of the fry container every time you change water.
When you do water changes, pour out gently through a net, return the contents of the net to the original fry container, then top off with water of the same temperature.
On Fish Behavior
Not all killifish have the same temperaments. Some are extremely shy and you’ll never see them except when feeding, or when you strip the tank to find them. Others will stay right out front and display and interact with you. This may or may not have anything to do with species.
Cover your tanks – almost all killifish are jumpers, some for fun, some when startled. If there’s a gap or a space, a fish will eventually manage to get through it. Killifish may even manage to travel – from one tank to another, sometimes even from room to room – after jumping.
Rivulus are good jumpers. They also have a tendency to “bask.” Don’t be surprised to find them out of water, on top of a leaf, clinging to the side of the tank above the water line, or hanging from the underside of the tank cover. This is not abnormal behavior – for Rivulus.
Not all annuals are short-lived. Some Nothobranchius have been known to live a several years, and some Cynolebias for two.
On General Maintenance
Feed a variety of foods, but not to excess.
Don’t ignore regular partial water changes – this is important, for most species. Some species defy the logic, and prefer older, funkier water.
Keep some sort of cover in your tanks – plants, spawning mops, etc. Fish that have places to hide are more secure and more likely to spawn.
Keep fish that will adapt to the water you have. This is much easier than trying to adapt the water to their needs.
Fish that do badly for someone else may do very well for you; and vice versa.
On Taxonomy
The Latin names are daunting, but important. Unfortunately, they are also highly subject to change.
In the case of established, named species, most of the time only the genus name will change. The Blue Gularis is always sjoestedti, whether its genus name is Fundulopanchax or Aphyosemion.
Newly described species, that carry a genus name and a temporary identification number, will invariably change as they are scientifically classified.
Synonoma are confusing, as well. A number of species have been described at different times by different collectors, thus the same fish may be called several names, with one of them preferred.
If you are careful to retain the exact name and codes from the fish you acquire (and to pass that information along to other aquarists when you buy/sell/trade fish, the proper taxonomy can usually be accurately traced.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, October 2001 Return to top of page
A Tip Regarding Filters
Want to raise your foam filter above the substrate or tank bottom, either to increase circulation and filter efficiency, or avoid having fish get caught or crushed beneath it?
Take the plastic center support (plastic tripod) from your local pizza delivery store, suggests Joe Bulterman, and use aquarium sealant to attach it to the bottom (weighted) center piece of the filter. This will raise the foam about 3/4" above the tank bottom. If you want less space, you can trim off the "legs" of the support as desired.
Alternatively, simply use masking tape to attach the input airline tubing to the outside back of the aquarium so the filter is suspended at the height of choice. "The tank doesn’t look any prettier," Joe says, "but I have never smothered a fish again after using either one of these two techniques."— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, December 2001 Return to top of page
Tips From the Fishroom
How to Stop Fry Predation
Many of us use "natural" setups to raise some of our killifish. Although this is a low maintenance and space saving approach, the problem often becomes how to keep the adults from eating their fry.
"I use baby guppies," says Dave Price. "I just keep throwing in baby guppies until they get tired of them and leave them alone." He says that once the fish leave the guppies alone fry predation also drops.
"I tried Dave’s method with my Fundulopanchax walkeri GH 74/2 and it worked, which is great since I haven’t had any luck incubating eggs separate from the parents," says Cathy Carney. "Suddenly I have fry growing up in the tank." She adds that an added bonus is that the guppies that have grown up with the killies are not hassled by them.
Why does this system work? Dave’s theory is that fish that grow up with all ages of fish don’t look at smaller fish as "lunch." He adds that the approach works for livebearers as well as killifish. – G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2001 Return to top of page
Too Many Fish?
Darwin’s first tenet of evolution is that all organisms overproduce. Given ideal conditions, any pair of fish will produce enough fry to exceed the carrying capacity of their environment, although in nature only a few would survive to adulthood. After all, the most common food for many fish is – smaller fish.
Yet there is also the struggle to have all the fish in a spawn survive. This drive to overpopulate is the basis of aquaculture, and the source of many of the aquarist’s problems. In a diverse population, prey by other fish limits the number of fry that survive. In the aquarium, particularly in the breeding aquarium, this "natural selection" does not occur, so too many fry survive, not just the best, strongest ones.
Thus it is up to the aquarist to perform the culling that would naturally occur in the wild, resulting only in the strongest and most fit individuals surviving to reproduce. But this leads directly to a key question: what is the "best"?
"The idea of culling is problematic to people who do not raise livestock," writes Thomas M. Chelpka. "Culling is a necessary and natural part of any farming operation. With cattle, the culls end up as beef.
The earlier culling begins the easier raising the rest of the spawn becomes. After all, success comes from raising the best, and getting rid of the rest. The reason that fish from the wild are considered superior to domestically raised stock is simple: God (or Nature) culls much better than we do.
Al Thomma, Chairman Emeritus of the Goldfish Society of America, has a stock response to people talking about raising goldfish, "You have too many fish!"
The three main factors in producing good fish are:using the best possible breeding stock
feeding the best foods, and
maintaining the best water quality.
By culling “excess numbers” of fish, the aquarist can get the population down to a manageable number, although just what that number is will vary with species and the aqaurist’s facilities to support them. Growing fish need sufficient room and high water quality.
But what fish do you cull?
Good question. Start by removing fry that are too small, or don’t swim well. If you’re working with guppies, be sure to do this early, since females grow considerably larger. Cull any fry that show signs of deformity – although some of the fancy strains have been developed from such “sports,” not always to the benefit of the species.
If you’re culling for color alone, think carefully before you start. Some color patterns are sex-linked and you may end up culling breeding stock that you need.
Look closely at finnage, and cull any fish with missing or deformed fins. Another deformity that occurs fairly often is missing or deformed gill colors, although certain color traits in fish include clear gill covers, which reveal the red gills beneath.
A long-time Betta breeder once advised, “cull for form and finnage first; wait until later to cull for colors.” This is good advice, since many fish change colors as they mature.
Culling from large numbers of fry takes a good eye, patience, and practice. Look for reasons to cull a fish, not to keep it. Remember that [technically, at least] you are only looking for the best pair to produce the next generation.
What To Do With the Culls?
If the fish are healthy (not diseased), and small enough, use them as feeder fish. After all, this is what would happen to them in nature.
Alternatively, especially for larger fish, put them in a plastic bag and put them in the freezer. Their metabolism will slow rapidly and they will die in a humane manner.
If the culled fish are healthy, they can also be used in any recipe for home-made food calling for fish. Simply cut off the heads and blend them into your next batch.
Culling may seem cruel, but remember that we are simply duplicating what happens in nature. Native waters (and aquaria) simply can’t support every fish that is hatched, until it reaches adulthood. If we select for the best from each spawn, we can not only keep our fish numbers within reasonable boundaries, but we can also assure that future generations will be healthy and strong.
Reference: Chelpka, Thomas M. “F2 and Beyond … Too Many Fish.” CAFÉ Menu, newsletter of the Columbus Area Fish Enthusiasts, March-April 2004.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – March 2005 Return to top of page
A Treatment for Leeches?
Few aquarists are fond of leeches, but occasionally despite our best efforts they manage to invade our tanks. Most often they arrive on plants from a pond or an outside source, or in a shipment of tubifex or blackworms.
But there are ways to prevent the arrival of these unwanted pests, advises Scott Davis.
For plants, dissolve a tablespoon of alum (available in the spices section of your local grocery store or pharmacy) in a small amount of hot water, then dilute in a gallon of water. Soak the plants for 20 minutes, remove and rinse. Rinse a second time, soak for 20 minutes more, than rinse one more time.
For removing leeches from incoming black or tubifex worms, try soaking the worms in a gallon jar of cold water, then decant into a second jar. Most of the leeches will have attached themselves to the sides of the jar. They can then be disposed of, or fed to fish that will take them. Scott suggests large Epiplatys, Aplocheilus, or cichlids as possible subjects.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – February 2004 Return to top of page
Traveling Killies …
We all know that many killies are famed for their jumping prowess ... who hasn’t lost a few to "crispy critterdom" over the years? But even more puzzling are those fry that just "appear" from time to time far from where their parents were kept. How do we account for those?
"I’ve had Aphyosemion striatum show up in tanks that were remotely removed from the breeding pair," reports Lee Harper. "How many people have collected eggs from mops and seen an egg on the back of a finger? How many didn’t we see?"
"I haven’t had fry ‘appear’ in remote tanks," says Cathy Carney, " but I’ve found eggs under my nails. I’ve learned to wash my hands between tanks. Probably reduces bacterial contamination ... and cross contamination between tanks, too."
"When fry appear to have traveled, ... I suspect transfer of eggs on plants, nets, hands, or whatever," adds Lee. "I have had goldfish ‘travel’ from pond to pond ... and I am sure it was by eggs."
Fry have even been known to appear in containers of waste aquarium water bound for houseplants or the garden. The eggs of some species may be "accidentally" collected during gravel vacuuming or water changes. If the holding container sets long enough before emptying, fry may begin to appear. Some aquarists regularly spawn certain pairs over gravel, then "harvest" the eggs by vacuuming the substrate.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2001 Return to top of page
Traveling Fish?
We’ve all encountered fish in tanks where they don’t belong. Often there’s a reasonable explanation, but in some cases, the riddle remains of how a fish got from "A" to "B". Unexplained "guests" have been found in a number of places -- other fish tanks, daphnia and greenwater tanks, even in the sump drains of fishrooms.
So how did those fish get where they shouldn’t be? Several explanations come to mind.“Visitors” that jumped from one tank to another;
“Hitchhikers,” that snagged a ride on your hands or nets, or on aquarium equipment; and
“Water transfers”
In most cases, “travelers” aren’t a real problem, but occasionally they can cause serious complications. Moving a misplaced fish isn’t that difficult, as long as you can properly identify it. If you can’t, destruction or inclusion in a display only tank may be the answer.
But what happens if a fish or egg gets into your daphnia tank? Some very healthy, happy fish and no daphnia.
Visitors
Killifish (and a number of other species) are noted for jumping. We find them dead on the floor, or swimming in tanks other than their own. Some can travel considerable distances, even from tank to tank.
Rivulus are noted for their tendency to “bask” on the sides of their tank, or on surface plants or the underside of tank covers. All it takes is one jump through a gap and they are where they aren’t supposed to be.
Many egg-laying species hide in dense plant clumps or spawning mops in the aquarium. When you move the mops or plants, you may accidentally move a fish.
Hitchhikers
Sometimes these travelers are difficult to spot. Baby fish can ride unnoticed in a net that’s being used in several tanks. Eggs can travel the same way, or on plants, on your hands, a cleaning rag, or in mops that haven’t been properly processed before being re-used.
A variant of the “hitchhiker” behavior occurs when you’ve completely emptied – but not wholly cleaned out – a tank, and introduce new fish. Suddenly, often weeks later, you find an odd fish in the tank, usually from an egg that remained when you removed the original fish.
Water Transfers
This cross-contamination occurs when you use water drained from one tank to top off another. This isn’t uncommon if you’re using waste water to culture daphnia or other water-based live foods. If any eggs or fry are in the water, they may live happily – without competition – in a culture tank, leading to a well-fed fish and fewer (or no) daphnia. The possibility of such contamination can be considerably reduced by running your waste water through a net before adding to a live food culture, but the only way to completely prevent it from occurring is to never use such water in culture tanks.
A Little Prevention …
How to reduce the problem of “traveling” fish?
When moving egg-laying fish, move the plants and any substrate too; or leave the old tank empty of fish for a while to allow any eggs to hatch.
If you must put fish into an established tank from which you’ve removed fish, make certain that the new fish are a complete different, unrelated species, both so you can tell them apart and to prevent accidental hybridizing.
Thoroughly wash your hands and all equipment when moving from tank to tank.
Re-process all mops before using in another tank or for another species (heat for a minute or so in your microwave).
Keep careful notes on all your tanks so you remember what was in the tank before the current occupants!
A little care will go a long way toward keeping “fish visits” from happening and help to keep your fish where they belong.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, November 2005 Return to top of page
I Like Undergravel Filters
"I use them in most of my tanks," states Bill Shenefelt. Although many killikeepers find under-gravel filters (UGF) a problem, Bill contends that they are particularly good for the Fundulopanchax species. "They keep the eggs clear of debris," he says, "and maybe give them a little extra clean water for development."
Every six weeks or so, Bill stirs up the gravel in his F. gardneri or F. puerzli tanks after moving the adults. "By morning I have a tank full of fry. If you have … gravel, and no undergravel filter, you get garbage in the gravel, and it becomes clumpy with fungus," he says. "Any bottom laid eggs are lost.
"As I see it, either use peat, bare bottom, or gravel with an undergravel filter," he says. You can also do both. Paint the outside of the tank bottom black. In half of the tank, use black gravel over half of an undergravel filter, on the side where you don’t feed. On the other (bare) side, put in a sponge filter. "That way, you can keep the bottom eggs in the gravel, and keep the bare section cleaned … without removing good eggs."
Bill keeps Riccia in some tanks, and Java moss in others, to lessen the need for water changes and to provide the fry with a supply of infusoria. — G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2005 Return to top of page
Weighing the importance of
Genetically manipulated fish
In the late months of 2003, news spread about the pending introduction of the first genetically manipulated fish into the aquarium trade, a "glowing" version of the old aquarium standby, Brachydanio rerio, the Zebra Danio, or Zebrafish.
We’re all familiar with many of the specialty varieties of fish that have been developed from basic wild forms – fancy angelfish, guppies, swordtails, platies, goldfish, etc., even some of the cichlids. With the exception of the fancy platies and swordtails, many of which were developed by crossing and re-crossing the two related species – these fancy varieties were developed from naturally occurring mutations.
The newly released GloFishÒ , on the other hand, were developed by gene splicing in the lab.
Zebrafish, along with Ricefish (Medaka sp.), have long been popular as scientific research subjects, with millions bred for experimentation and study.
Some years back, scientists found that by splicing a gene from certain other species, usually jellyfish or corals, they could create Zebrafish that fluoresced in the presence of specific water-borne toxins, a useful tool for pollution studies. The original result, using the gene for Green fluorescent protein (GFP), produced a green fluorescing fish. Later work with modifications of the protein yielded red, blue, yellow, and orange variants.
Green GloFishÒ first appeared in Asian aquarium markets in July 2003, and reportedly showed only limited color, which fluoresced more strongly under ultraviolet (black) light. Advertised for the first American release in January 2004 but actually appearing in some stores in fall of 2003 was a red form of the GloFishÒ . In advertising photos, these fish appeared to have quite brilliant color.
These patented GloFishÒ are not the only genetically engineered forms that have been developed for the scientific community. Other Zebrafish strains have blood that glows, or certain organs that fluoresce, allowing them to be used on the very cutting edge of scientific and medical research.
GFP has been used even more extensively in Medaka, strains of which have been developed using the luciferase gene from fireflies.
What effect does the introduction of such "Frankenfish" portend for the aquarium trade?
Obviously, retailers hope that they will spark public interest in fish as pets, promoting more people to take up the hobby of fishkeeping and increasing sales. Certainly the fish are unique, and likely to draw the attention of consumers, but they also carry hefty price tags. But what about the long-term effects on the species?
As fishbreeders and keepers, we know that many aquarists enjoy breeding and trading their fish . Supposedly, GloFishÒ are sterile, with the eggs being pressure treated during development to change the chromosome counts. However, reports indicate that a number of eggs were shipped from the Asian developers to domestic U.S. fish farms mass reproduction for the aquarium market, inferring that the fish we may purchase are in fact fertile.
Will these fish easily interbreed with the "normal" colored Zebrafish? One can assume, since Zebrafish are a fairly easy species to breed, that at least a few aquarists will take up the challenge to find out. If they succeed in breeding the genetically engineered strain to the normal strains, how is that implanted gene for fluorescence going to behave? Will such "crossbred" Zebrafish revert to a "common" type, as do dogs allowed to freely interbreed? Or is the fluorescing gene dominant, and here to stay?
Since GloFishÒ are patented, what kinds of legal problems are commercial fish breeders (and possibly hobbyists) going to face when some of those "crossbred" fish reach the markets?
As concerned hobbyists, we may wonder. But the FDA seems to have no problem with GloFishÒ .
"They pose no threat to the food supply," a December 9, 2003 statement announced. "There is no evidence that these genetically engineered zebra danio fish pose any more threat to the environment than their unmodified counterparts... [so] the FDA finds no reason to regulate these particular fish."
Only time will tell us the rest of the story.— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – February 2004 Return to top of page
It’s Your First Time –
What to Expect at a Fish Show
One aspect of the killifish hobby that many aquarists eventually become involved with is showing. But just what should you expect at a fish show?
The show room, of course.
Speakers and/or workshops.
Possibly, a special meal or banquet.
Maybe even a side event, such as a tour to a local pet shop or aquarium, or a local collecting trip.
But most importantly, lots of avid killikeepers who are eager to buy, sell, show, and talk fish. The people are what make the hobby; feel free to ask questions, volunteer to work, and make new friends.Finding Out About Shows
Most clubs get their show publicity out early, so you’ll know when and where the event is going to be held, what the classes will be, and who to contact for more information. Watch your club newsletters and the Business Newsletter of the AKA, and check out the various aquarium sites on the Internet.
Equipment
In most cases, the sponsoring club provides tanks, covers, and water. If they don’t, they’ll usually tell you so you can supply your own.
For tanks, you’ll usually encounter the small, rectangular ones with snap-on lids. These stack and store well, and are very effective at keeping fish in and prying fingers out. If you’re concerned about the local water, you can bring your own.
Killifish are usually shown in pairs (except for breeding groups and the occasional “stud male” class), in bare tanks without accessories, although a breeding mop or bit of plant cover is occasionally accepted. Ask beforehand.
Since there is rarely additional lighting in showrooms, you may want to bring along a small flashlight, to better observe the fish you find of particular interest.
Procedures
Upon arrival, you’ll need to enter your fish. This usually involves either filling out a form or talking to the appropriate club member, then paying a nominal entry fee (usually a dollar or so per pair). You’ll simplify this step if you make out your list of show fish at home beforehand.
Sometimes the club members “bench” the fish (put them in tanks); sometimes you’ll be asked to do it yourself. Fish are usually grouped by classes in a semi-standard breakdown by genus – Small Aphyosemions, Large Aphyosemions, North American Natives, South American Annuals, Nothobranchius, Rivulus, etc. The exact class breakdown may vary some from show to show. If you don’t know or aren’t certain what class your fish belong in, leave it to the club “experts” to make the determination.
Judging
Tanks are usually marked with labels that have class and entry numbers, so that both the judges and the club can keep track of entries.
Fish are judged on color, deportment, suitability as a pair, breeding potential, and how closely they exemplify their species. Killifish judges are accredited by the AKA by class (Nothobranchius, Rivulus, etc.), and must pass qualifying tests. Since not all judges are accredited for all classes, you’ll usually see a number of judges at work. When all the classes have been judged, the first place winners compete for Best in Show. The fishroom is normally closed to the public during judging, so the judges and record keepers can work without interruption.
Fish Sales
In most cases, the show ends with a fish auction, including most of the show fish, other fish that have been brought in, and (in some cases) equipment. Not all show fish are sold; some fish are shown, then taken home again. Auction proceeds are usually split between the seller and the sponsoring club.
In addition to the auction, some shows have a Fish Sale Room, with the sponsoring organization receiving a share of the proceeds. Most shows also allow “box” or private sales, but may limit them to certain days or locations. You can always make private arrangements ahead of time, too, the breeder to deliver the fish at the show.
Most fish are sold in pairs or trios; rarely will you find bags of eggs.
Preparing and Packing Your Fish
There are no special rules for preparing show fish. Remember that since both the male and the female fish are judged, both need to be healthy and in good color, fairly well matched for size (unless the species is noted for such disparity), and should evidence good breeding potential.
Taking (or shipping) fish to a show and getting the fish you bought home again afterward involves the same type of planning required for shipping. Package them individually in plastic bags, in 1/4 water and 3/4 air. Bag pairs in an outer plastic bag clearly labeled with your name, the species name and location code. Carry them in a standard styro, a soft side cooler, or other container that will protect them from shock and from temperature extremes, or ship them in a standard styrofoam fish box, to arrive a day or two before the show begins.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2001 Return to top of page
Where to Begin? Your First Tank
You’re setting up your very first tank, or you’ve decided to expand and set up additional tanks. You know that tanks need to undergo a "breaking-in" period for the bacteria to get established and the nitrogen cycle to run its course.
But do you really need to wait all the time that the "experts" and the books recommend? Isn’t there a quicker, easier way?
There certainly is. If you already have aquaria, you probably already know the answer. If you’re just getting started, here’s a tip: ask for a starter culture from someone who has a well-established tank.
When it comes to a new tank, two factors are essential:start with well-conditioned, dechlorinated water, and
provide a good starter culture of bacteria
For most of us, conditioned water is no problem. Simply fill the tank and add an appropriate measure of the dechlorinating agent of your choice. There are a number of products available that will do the trick. Let the water sit for a day or two. Don’t add the fish yet!
The starter culture of bacteria can be a bit more problematic. If you are starting from scratch with a brand new tank, you can use one of the commercially available starters, such as Cycle (by Hagen), to help “seed” the appropriate bacteria.
One of the very best ways to start a new aquarium is to take a culture graft (a starter) from a long established fish tank. You can take a piece of filter floss from one tank and move it to the other, or you can start with a gallon or two of waste water from an old tank, then add conditioned water to it. Be careful that the source tank is healthy; there should have been no fish losses or parasite outbreaks in that tank for some time
A well-established, healthy tank provides a good environment for the fish, and is a joy for the fishkeeper. Fish are active and well-colored, the plants are growing well, and the water is clear. A good starter culture in a new tank, performance of regular housekeeping chores, and regular feedings using a variety of foods, none of them to excess, coupled with a good filter system, should have your tank running smoothly and your fish happy in no time.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, September 2005 Return to top of page
You know you’re married to a fishkeeper when …
Your spouse’s first activity on arriving in a new city is to find the aquarium store listings in the yellow pages of the telephone book.
Any trip automatically focuses around “what fishroom can we visit?” and/or “what fish can I collect?”
“Emergency equipment” in the car means nets, fish bags, bottles, and at least one styro.
The family has learned that a muddy or stagnant pond always takes precedence over a tourist attraction.
“Fishing” doesn’t refer to poles and bait, but to seine nets and plastic buckets.
“Dress up clothes” means clean jeans and last year’s newly washed killie tee-shirt.
The needs of the fish in styros always come before those of human companions.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – April 2001 Return to top of page
Page copyright G.C.K.A.and Donna M. Recktenwalt 2001-2005. Return to G.C.K.A. Home Page.