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The Fishroom Library —
Articles from the G.C.K.A. Newsletter — 2006
Articles on freshwater fishkeeping and killifish in particular
For articles from previous years, see the Archives section.
A collection of articles, tips, and information about tropical fishkeeping in general, and killi-keeping in particular, from the pages of the G.C.K.A. Newsletter. All material is copyright (©) by the listed author, or by G.C.K.A. or Donna M. Recktenwalt, unless otherwise noted. Reproduction is permitted for non-commercial purposes only (i.e., club bulletins). We do request that you provide source credit, and send us a copy of the publication in which the article appears. Please forward to G.C.K.A., c/o Recktenwalt, 4337 Ridgepath Drive, Dayton, OH 45424.
Alternate Water Sources – RO units? Dehumidifiers?
Another Report on Coco Fiber – how one aquarist uses it.
Bellysliders in fry – a few reasons and explanations for this phenomenon.
Changing Fry Water – a couple of techniques to save those babies.
Consider Light – spawning preferences.
Culturing Whiteworms, Enchytraeus albidus
Disinfecting Equipment — again. A few killiekeepers share their techniques.
Eggs and Fry in Peat
Feeding Bloodworms? Use Care – Bloodworms can trigger serious allergies.
Finding Developed Eggs in Peat – there’s a skill to it.
Fruit Fly Media – several different recipes.
Fundulopanchax scheeli
Green Water Soup – not just an algae bloom.
Incubating Non-Annual Eggs – another technique to try.
Lamprichthys tanganicanus
Make Your Own Shipping Boxes
Maybe Clean … ain’t the way – the case for mulm etc.
A look at Medications – a quick review of some commonly used substances.
Other Food Sources for Fry – some suggestions for those little folk.
Plants as Filters? – do you really need a filter?
Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)
Really Getting Equipment Clean
Several Methods for Epiplatys annulatus
Slime – it’s important for our fish. The slime coat and what it does.
Some possibilities for Alternate Foods. Things you may not have considered.
Some suggestions for Vinegar Eels – which vinegar to use?
Some Tips for Kordon Bags – using them may require a change in your techniques.
Some Unexpected Problems – leaks, cloudy water, etc.
Ten More Plants for Beginners
Tips for Hatching Reluctant Eggs – some additional suggestions.
Want to Make Your Fish Happy? Change the Water!
Water Changes – Sensitive Fish? May be not …
For many who keep killifish, conditioned water from the tap meets all their water source needs. Others have water that requires adjustment. So the questions arise: can you use “waste” water from an RO unit, or from a dehumidifier, in your tanks?
The simple answer is “yes.”
RO Waste Water — Reverse Osmosis units take water from your regular water supply (a well or municipal source) and force it through a special membrane that filters out some of the total dissolved solids (mineral content), thus producing softer water. The “waste” water is usually 10-20% harder than the input water and contains the removed minerals plus some of those used for the RO process. It is safe for fish, and can be used almost anywhere you’d use tap water.
Dehumidifier Water — In some cases, moisture levels in a building require the use of a dehumidifier. These work by pulling room air past a set of refrigeration coils. The moisture then condenses and drops into a collection container. As long as there are no exposed copper parts in the dehumidifier (copper can kill fish), this waste water can also be used in the fishroom. Aluminum coils are usually safe, although at extreme pH levels may cause a problem. “I have used dehumidifier water sparingly off and on for nearly a decade with no adverse effects,” says Allen Johnson. He plans to use it even more extensively, to lower the TDS of his tap water.
“I used dehumidifier water for about 5 years on the elegans group,” reports Joe Weber. “The coil on my unit appears to be aluminum. There seems to be no adverse effects” from this water, which he uses 1:1 with his hard tap water.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
“I’ve been using coco fiber for breeding my killies,” Harry Faustmann reports. He purchases ‘bricks’ of coco fiber from pet shops or horticultural supply houses, then soaks the fiber in a bucket of warm water to prepare it for spawning medium.
After he hatches the fry, he places the “old” used fiber into his worm boxes as the culture medium.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
Anyone who breeds annual killifish is familiar with the problem–fry that seem unable to swim and just lie on the bottom, moving only with an effort.
“A belly slider is a fish that has swim bladder problems,” says Lee Harper, and that can’t maintain its position in the water. Often they vigorously attempt to swim, but when they stop, sink back to the bottom.
The problem isn’t just limited to Nothos, or to killies. “It is a considerable problem in aquaculture of commercial species,” reports Eric Lund.
There are a number of theories regarding the cause. Bellysliders may be the result of too long or too short an incubation period, too wet or too dry incubation material, even a genetic effect.
“I have observed the condition for something over 20 years,” says Cal Him, who breeds exclusively annuals, both South American and Nothobranchius. “I believe the condition is hereditary. I don’t believe that diet, incubation temperature, peat on the bottom of the fry tank, depth of hatching water, etc. have anything to do with it.” In some strains, he’s seen an incidence of bellysliders above 75%. He has eliminated such strains.
Other possible factors may be lack of oxygen, late hatching (with the egg yolk absorbed earlier), or inability of the fry to break free of the egg sack. In some cases, “force hatching by raising the temperature of the eggs in the peat” improves hatching results. “It seems to me,” Cal says, “that there is a predetermined time period during which hatching … is acceptable and healthy fry will be produced.”
“Under ideal conditions,” says Brian Watters, “all the [Notho] fry will be swimming normally within a few hours of hatching.” Fry that can’t attain normal swim bladder function and remain belly sliders rarely survive.
Some Helpful Hints
If you have eggs from fish that are prone to produce bellysliders, “change the hatching condition,” Hal suggests. “Water quality, temperature of the water, temperature of the medium prior to hatching, length of time in incubation (length of diapause)….”
“I used to have problems with belly sliders in different Cynolebias,” reports Peter Uhlmann. “I have solved the problem completely by adding ‘oxygen pills’ (oxyletten) to the water when I hatch the fry.” The method is described in detail in “Las Grandes Cynolebias, Los Killis Del Diabolo,” BISEC-74, Mayo-Junio 1997 (in Spanish) from the SEC.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
Changing water in a container of small, delicate fry can pose problems. Here are a few tips to help you out.
If you use sponge filters in your fry tanks, you have an air-line hose. “I use the air line to drain the [fry] tanks into a 5 gallon bucket,” says Charles Harrison. “I set up the drain siphon and walk away.” A brine shrimp net on the receiving end catches any fry. When done, he replaces the airline on the filter, then refills the tank with treated water.
If you use a siphon to empty your tanks, you can simply drain the waste water into a white bucket. Let the bucket stand and settle, then shine a bright light into it. This will help you see the fry, which you catch with a fine net or turkey baster.
Diane Brown uses a Python® for her water changes. “I use two separate setups for water changes,” she says. The “true” python is used only to fill tanks. The other one has a large gravel vac on one end. She sets the other end into a “baby saver,” a large strainer sitting inside a several gallon bowl in the bathtub. “The sides of the strainer are a half inch higher than the bowl, so the draining water passes through the strainer before overflowing the bowl and draining into the tub.” When complete, she uses a flashlight to check for fry. By using a smaller mesh strainer, you can capture even quite small fry.
Others simply tie an old piece of pantyhose over the end of the siphon intake, or loosely stuff in a piece of filter sponge. If the suction is too strong, simply reduce the flow.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
Spawning preferences …
Consider Light
There’s no doubt that most indoor aquaria need some type of lighting. Live plants require it, and fishkeepers need it in order to see the fish. But what about the fish?
If you have live plants in your tanks, they do need some dark. “Plants have a dark phase (the Calvin Cycle) of photosynthesis,” says Nick Ternes. Although they don’t need full dark for this, they don’t use light energy as efficiently during it. “I see no reason to have [aquarium] lights on 24/7 and don’t on my tanks.”
Many aquarists have noted a correlation between aquarium lighting intensity and fish spawning activity. Some fish spawn in bright, sunlit areas, others retreat to the very darkest corners before laying their eggs.
Light–or lack of it–may have an effect on fertility in some fish. “I became more sensitive to the need for a daily [light] cycle,” says Wright Huntley, “when I lost a strain of guppies I’d spent three years developing.” After a few months in a basement with no lights and no windows, the fish became sterile.
“For breeding, I think it is the changes in light that make a difference, not simply [whether they are] off or on,” comments Scott Douglass.
“I have always seen lighting as a big factor for breeding,” states David Sanchez, and “the eggs of many [fish] are light sensitive.” It’s well known that Diapterons prefer the darker areas of a tank for spawning, but some fish will only lay eggs in complete darkness. On the other end of the spectrum are some of the tetras, which will only spawn in the open in brightly lit tanks.
Morning or afternoon sunlight has been observed to trigger spawning in some fish, possibly due to the higher levels of red light present at those times. “I have seen Fundulus chrysotus in the wild,” David Sanchez says. “Males chased females and apparently embraced … in the weeds and spawned. This was especially apparent on sunny days in the summer and spring.”
For other fish species, dim light, or even near darkness, is required.
“I keep my lights on 24/7 on my very densely planted tanks,” says Ed Brandt. “I seem to have no problems with the fish spawning.”
Diane Brown says that she has two sets of lights on her 29 gal. tanks. They are on different timers, with one light on for 12 hours, the other for 14. “I have seen my F. gardneri doing their spawning dance mostly in the evening ‘twilight’ when only one light is on.”
“I think we have all noticed that our fish seem to breed more readily on stormy days, dark, rainy, snowy, low-pressure” conditions, observes Edd Kray. They may be reacting not to the low pressure, but to the dimmer light. David Ramsey, discussing his efforts to video-tape his fish spawning, reported that under photo lights, his well conditioned F. walkeri refused to spawn. Within hours of removing the bright photo lights, the pair spawned. “I have had the same type of results with several different fish,” he says, “not just killies. They want to breed in a very dim tank.”
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, April 2006 Return to Top of Page
Culturing White Worms (Enchytraeus albidus)
These 1″ long opaque white worms–closely related to earthworms and performing many of the same functions–are a valuable source of protein and fats, and in moderate amounts are excellent food for fish, particularly for conditioning breeders. They will survive in water for several days.
Whiteworms are fairly easy to culture, if you remember SAMS: Suitable container; Appropriate food; Moist culture medium; Steady temperature.
Suitable Container
The container must be large enough to hold the medium required, solid enough to hold its shape, and dense enough to not leak. Shallow ice cream tubs, plastic bait boxes, plastic dishpans covered with plastic wrap, even the shallow type of Polystyrene foam fish boxes work well. Containers should be covered to help keep temperature and moisture levels stable, and to keep the worms in dark or dim conditions.
Appropriate Food
Many different foods are suitable for whiteworms. Possibilities include instant oats, vegetable scraps, stale white bread dampened with water or milk, dry dog or cat food, pablum, and mashed potatoes, among others.
Once established, a good culture will consume the equivalent of a slice of bread every day or two.
Moist Culture Medium
Whiteworms prefer a neutral or slightly alkaline soil. Suitable culture media include old peat moss; ready-mixed, all-purpose peat-based compost; or (preferred by many) Magic Worm Bedding. The medium should be damp but not soaking. If a ball of it holds together when squeezed in your hand, it’s about right. Some recommend pouring moderately wet medium into the center of the container, while leaving the outer edges of the culture drier.
Regularly check the moisture level. Whiteworms will die if the soil becomes too dry. If the culture sours or becomes too wet, the worms will swarm up the sides of the container and die, leaving you with a smelly mess.
Steady Temperature
Whiteworms prefer fairly cool temperatures of 55-65ºF. Below 35ºF they will stop breeding; above 75ºF they’ll die. Some aquarists modify an old refrigerator to maintain the ideal temperature range.To start a whiteworm culture you will need a starter culture. This may be obtained from a fellow aquarist, or purchased from any one of a number of live food suppliers.
Setting Up a Culture
All containers and media should be sterilized before use; a quick trip through the microwave works well.
To set up a culture, place the medium of choice in your container. Add dechlorinated water for moisture and work the material with your hands until it’s fairly well distributed. Fluff up the culture medium and layer it 3-5″ deep in the container. Mix some instant oats into the top layer of the soil, then press half a cooked potato (skin on) into the center until its at or just below the surface. Put the starter culture on top of the food, then top with a small piece of glass. Cover the culture container.
Check the culture daily until the potato is gone. If the potato turns foul, replace it with a fresh one. In about three weeks, you should have an active culture. You’ll know the worms are breeding if you stir the medium and can see them throughout.
From here on, you should feed the culture daily. If there is food left over the next day, remove it and feed less. If the food is totally gone, feed slightly more until you know how much the culture needs. Once this point is reached, feed regularly and harvest as needed.
Be sure to check the culture regularly for moisture and freshness. You may have to replace part of the culture medium now and then, or adjust the amounts of food, depending on culture activity.
To Harvest the Culture
Once it’s well established, a good culture can be harvested a couple times a week. You can collect worms from the underside of the glass or pick clumps of them from the surface of the culture medium. Alternatively, you can place the entire culture over a low wattage light (a heat source) to force the worms to the surface. You can also place a portion of the medium in a shallow container and cover with 1/2″ of water. Cover the container, wait about 15 minutes, and the worms will have gathered in balls on top. After harvesting, simply squeeze the medium dry and return to the culture container.
To Feed your Fish
Fairly clean worms can be placed directly into a worm feeder. Those with soil attached should be rinsed off in water before use.
Pests
One of the major drawbacks to culturing whiteworms is potential pests. Tight fitting covers with only the smallest holes for ventilation will usually keep small flies in check. Mites, too, are sometimes a problem, but can be removed by briefly soaking the entire culture. The pests float to the surface and can be netted off (and fed to your fish, if you like). Simply squeeze the medium fairly dry again before returning it to the container.
Mold may also occur, from overfeeding or a failure to sterilize the medium. Remove as much of the mold as possible, then stir the remainder into the medium. Add a thin layer of fresh sterilized medium on top. Don’t feed the culture for a week or so. If the problem persists, discard the culture and start a fresh one.
References: “Food of the month–White Worms.” Viviparous, February 1997.
Shenefelt, Bill. “Culturing White Worms (Enchytrraeus albidus),” Greater Pittsburgh Aquarium Society Finformation, April 2004, Vol. 56, Issue 4.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 2006 Return to Top of Page
“I boil my mops ad peat moss on the stove between uses,” says Doug Ebeling. “Sponge mops are rarely sterilized, but if so, I treat them like other tools and tanks. I use a 10% bleach solution for at least 15 minutes, followed by water rinses, a rinse with strong de-chlorinator solution, and more water rinses.” Recently he has been using Jungle’s net soak solution for nets, scrubbies and feeding tools; it seems to have less detrimental effect on the equipment, and is easier to rinse.
Kenny Poh doesn’t reuse peat, so has no need to sterilize it between uses. But “for other aquarium equipment like sponge filters, mops and turkey basters, I usually wash them thoroughly, then put them into water and microwave them for 15 minutes.
“I don’t reuse [equipment] on any other containers or tanks without first microwaving,” he says. Since he keeps a number of commonly used supplies on hand, he can rotate through them without having to clean an item every time he uses it.
To prevent cross-contamination, the used and rinsed equipment is stored separately from the “clean” equipment, in an area well away from his tanks. At the end of the day, or when he has run out of a particular clean item, he sterilizes a batch ready for the next use. This system has worked well for him in preventing accidental transfer of pathogens (and fish) from one tank to another.
Mark Pearlscott reports that he rarely disinfects sponge filters, but “mops and peat I definitely disinfect. I do so by placing in a bowl of water and microwaving for 3-5 minutes. He squeezes out the material after it cools and stores in bottles or labeled Ziplock bags to keep track of what has been microwaved and what has not.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter – May 2006 Return to Top of Page
If you keep annual killifish, you often want to see whether you do or do not have any eggs in the peat you’re putting into storage. Accomplishing this can be a challenge, since eggs are small and quickly take on coloration from the tannins in the peat. How to do it? Kate Breimayer has a few suggestions.
“I have found it easier to see eggs in peat if I spray them with water periodically while searching,” she says. “I count them on a plate held under a screw-in pc light. It’s not as hot as other lights and allows me to see the amber glow of the egg.” Eggs counted early, 2 weeks old or less, are easier to see than those which are further developed.
To search through peat, she gently picks up the peat and sees how many eggs fall through and stick to the damp plate. Searching through Coco fiber seems a little easier, she notes, since the eggs often fall to the bottom.
When she’s hatching out eggs from peat, she uses a turkey baster to either collect the fry from the peat (for small hatches) or to remove the peat from the hatching container (for larger hatches). Any fry that appear in the removed peat are caught and returned to join their siblings.
If this procedure doesn’t work, she’ll move peat and fry into a 10-gal. tank and do a series of water changes, leaving the peat in place. “This way the fry grow very quickly,” she says, “and I think the fry are hardier.” The peat then can be easily removed when the fry are bigger and easier to see. Peat diving species, in particular, seem to be happier with some substrate below them, using it as cover.
If you’re worried about contamination from decomposing food, simply push the peat away from the area where you feed, and remove the excess as needed.
— G.C.K.A.Newsletter, September/October 2006 Return to Top of Page
Finding Developed Eggs in Peat
One of the thrills of raising annual fish is having fry appear magically from what appeared to be dry “mud” (or in the usual case, peat moss). But how do you know there are eggs in that peat to begin with?
Most killiekeepers experienced with annual fish agree that newly spawned eggs can usually be seen quite easily. Once the eggs have been in the peat for a while, the task becomes harder, since eggs darken as they develop, and take on color from the tannins in peat.
But you often can find developing eggs in peat. Here we share a few techniques.
“I prefer to move small clumps of peat across a sheet of newspaper,” says Charles Harrison. Scattering small amounts of peat on newspaper with the heel/palm of your hand (yes, the paper will get damp) creates a very thin layer of debris, making the eggs easier to see.
“Once you find a few eggs the optical character recognition kicks in,” he says, “and they become easier to find. The silver eye rim looking back at you is unforgettable.” You can use a round fluorescent lamp with a magnifier in the center, or a hand-held lens and a bright lamp. White paper also helps, by providing contrast to the peat/eggs and to other debris.
Wright Huntley says he never wets the peat to see eggs. “I put it, fluffed, in a shallow, white bowl. A strong (50W or more) halogen reading lamp across the bowl from me gives good light for finding the eggs. Push all the peat to one side, then drag a little bit at a time across the center of the bowl.” Watch for the amber glow of reflected light shining up through an eye. The halogen light makes the gold ring around the eye really stand out; other types of light may reveal no eggs at all.
He agrees that once you’ve found a few eggs, the process becomes easier. However, some South American annuals’ eggs acquire so much debris that they are really hard to see.
“I prefer a transmitted light with the peat slurried in water,” Lee Harper says. “For my eyes, a magnifying viewer is essential.”
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
Those who culture fruit flies, and many killiekeepers do, are always looking for “new and better” culture media. For those of you who raise fruit flies and are interested in making your own culture mix, here are a couple of recipes that you might try.
Harvey Peterson Medium
1/2 cup Warm Water
1/2 tbs. White Sugar
1 tbs. Powdered Milk
4-6 tbs. Instant Mashed Potatoes
5-15 granules Baker’s Yeast
In a 24 or 32 oz. deli container or insect cup, dissolve sugar in warm water. Add powdered milk and stir well. Add mashed potatoes (the exact amount required will vary with the humidity level and ventilation of the cultures). Swirl the container in your hands to thoroughly mix ingredients, then let sit for a few minutes to solidify. Add yeast on top, then introduce fruit flies.
Alternatively, mix all dry ingredients together, then make up culture medium using equal amounts of mix and water.
The “Power Mix” Medium
Boil together 1 mashed Banana, 1/2 can Grape Juice Concentrate, 14 oz. Applesauce (half a large jar), and
1/8 cup Molasses.
In a separate container, combine 1 cup Instant Mashed Potatoes and 1/2 cup Brewer’s Yeast.
Also in separate container, combine 1 cup Water and1 cup Vinegar.
Once boiled mix has cooled, add 6 tbs. of it to a 24 or 32 oz. plastic container. To it, add 6 tbs. dry mix and 2-4 tbs. liquid mix and stir very well. The proportion of liquid to dry may vary slightly due to humidity and ventilation conditions. Let culture medium sit to solidify, then add 25-50 fruit flies.
A Few General Notes
- Store cultures between 70-85ºF.
- Production volume can be increased by adding extra egg-laying sites (cardboard, window screening, etc.)
- Use only flies from healthy cultures to start new ones,
and don’t mix strains. - If you have problems with mold, discard those cultures.
- Mark the start date of each culture. This will help determine when you can first harvest from the culture, and when to start new ones.
Reference: Edmonds, Devin. “Culturing Fruit Flies.” Amphibiancare.com,
http://www.amphibiancare.com/frogs/articles/fruitflies.html.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
Native to the African streams and marshes of Southern Nigeria, Fundulopanchax scheeli somewhat resembles but is not closely related to fish of the F. gardneri complex. Experimental crossing of the two species has produced only sterile offspring.
F. scheeli is a good “beginner” species, attractive, easy to keep, and suitable for even community aquaria. A pair or trio will manage quite nicely in a 1 to 2.5 gal. plant-filled bowl, but for plenty of fry, set up a pair in a 5 or 10 gal. tank with an undergravel filter, being sure to add plants for cover. Since these fish are “switch spawners,” provide them either with mops or bowls of peat for spawning.
Family: Cyprinodontidae
Common name: Scheel’s Killie, Orange-fringed KillieOrigin: Africa, Southern Nigeria
Size: to 2.5″
Temperament: Generally peaceful, although two males kept with a group of females may fight. Male-only groups usually live peacefully together.
Maintenance: Prefers pH 6-7.5; soft water, 68-77° F, with some plants.
Breeding: Switch spawners. Eggs incubate about 2 weeks in water, about 3 weeks in moist peat.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, May 2006 Return to Top of Page
Green Water Soup
We’ve all seen tanks whose water is more green than not. Maybe because of neglect, overfeeding, an algae bloom or just because we scraped off the algae from the tank walls and it was then discharged into the water.
So, what’s the big deal about “green water” as fish food? The fact is that “green water” (the food, not the algae bloom) is an excellent food for extremely small fry whose mouths are too small for baby brine shrimp or microworms. It’s also an excellent media for growing daphnia.
Alexander Priest writes that he keeps at least three cultures of daphnia going at any given time, each in an abundantly green water “soup.”
You will need, he says, a clean container placed near a strong light source (a window is best, but aquarium lighting will do), in order to produce algae. Fill the container with water, if possible using neutral to acidic waste water from your own fish tanks. You should test the pH of the water before using it, and adjust with baking soda if required.
Some organic material is required. If you start with used tank water, you’ll already have some organic matter in suspension. Alex then adds sun-dried grass clippings and/or wilted lettuce leaves. You can add rabbit pellets, dog food, dry cereal, etc. instead, but Priest has not tried them.
Now wait until the water turns green. You’ll probably need to scrape algae off the walls of the container occasionally to maintain sufficient brightness.
There are various opinions about whether to use aeration or snails in green water cultures. Alex has found that for him, aeration seems to slow down culture bloom; adding snails has had mixed results. Dead snails rapidly pollute, especially in warm, nutrient rich water in small containers.
Once the water in the culture container is a nice dark green, you can use an eyedropper or a small baster to harvest and squirt it into your fry tanks.
You can also add a daphnia culture to the green water. “The green water will feed and nourish the daphnia, which in turn will start multiplying like crazy,” he says.
Reference: Priest, Alexander A. “Green Water Soup,” Modern Aquarium, March 2004. Republished in The Reflector, newsletter of the Central New York Aquarium Society, January 2006, Vol. 29, No. 5.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, April 2006 Return to Top of Page
Incubating non-annual killifish eggs is usually fairly straightforward, but sometimes we run into complications or problems. Here’s a method that one aquarist has found useful.
“I have a few heavily planted tanks devoid of all life, just plants,” says David Sanchez, with water that is peat and oak-leaf treated.
He takes a plastic container with 150-micron screen on the sides (to allow the free flow of water) and places it in one of these planted tanks, with an irrigation drip above to aid in water movement. He puts a few sprigs of Java Moss in the container, and the eggs collected from a single spawning. Dave separates his breeders and brings them together as pairs to spawn once or twice a week. He then adds a couple of Japanese black shrimp (“that’s what they were called when I purchased them, anyway”) to the egg container. These clean the eggs and leave the good eggs alone.
“Make sure to experiment with a few eggs first,” Dave cautions, “since not all shrimps will work.” Some may eat eggs and even small fish.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
A challenging killifish …
Lamprichthys tanganicanus
By Donna Recktenwalt
History etc.
Perhaps one of the most sought-after killifish–and supposedly one of the most difficult to keep–is the Tanganyikan Pearl Killie, Lamprichthys tanganicanus. Endemic to the hard, alkaline water of Lake Tanganyika in Africa, this species lives sympatically with a number of cichlid species. Schools of uniform-sized fry are sometimes visible just below the surface, while spawning pairs are usually found in 3-15 feet of water over rocky banks mixed with areas of pebbles. The eggs are laid deep within these pebbled layers, offering protection from egg-eating species.
To the surprise of some, this is a killifish species that can safely be kept with some of the mouth-brooding cichlids (Tropheus). The cichlids can’t get the killie eggs out of the rocks or spawning mops, and the killies can’t get the eggs out of the cichlids, says Daniel McMonigle
Of course, it is mostly the behavior and coloration of L. tanganicanus that makes these fish special to aquarists. Males, which can reach 6″ in length, differ in size, finnage, and coloration from the females. Base color for both sexes is a pale golden shade. In the males, horizontal rows of flashing blue dots line the body; and the pointed dorsal, anal, and caudal fins are marked with rows of gold dots. In the right lighting, the males flash like jewels.
Females lack the males’ intensity of color, show little if any blue, and have clear fins.
Maintenance
Preferred conditions for this species are hard, alkaline water (“liquid rock”), pH 8.6, hardness 240 ppm., temperature 72-80° F, and a substrate of gravel or sand. If you don’t have the hard water conditions they prefer, use of Tanganyikan Cichlid Buffer may help. Schooling fish, they like clean, moving water, and plenty of swimming room. Most recommend a 20 or 30 gal. long tank as minimum size for a couple of pair.
Those who have succeeded in keeping and breeding the fish have tended to use large tanks, and were religious about performing regular water changes. As more than one fishkeeper has discovered, L. tanganicanus simply will not tolerate poor water conditions – ammonia, nitrite or nitrate. When discussing Tanganyikan Pearl Killifish with Dr. Bob Goldstein and Al Castro, Judith Irwin reports that they both “reiterated the need for ‘absolutely perfect’ water quality.”
Breeding
Given conditions to their liking, and suitable spawning media, L. tanganicanus are not terribly difficult to breed. Young fish can be sexed fairly early, before they develop their mature coloration, by observing the anal fins–males’ will be long and pointed, females’ short and rounded. Young males will often start to spawn at about 2-1/2″, after attaining their color. Some aquarists recommend keeping only one male in the spawning tank, citing the species aggressiveness. “Even in my biggest tank,” says McMonigle, “a tank 8’ wide, 3’ deep, and 3-1/2’ tall, males would find each other and do battle.” Others maintain them in colonies. The dominant male will then select “his” spawning site and will defend it against other males, while dancing above it and mating with any willing female who comes into his territory. Females can produce 1-4 eggs daily, sometimes skipping a day. In nature, spawning of the large, pinkish eggs takes place over gravel, or in rocky cracks where the eggs can be “squirted” into crevices where they have some protection from predators.
Under aquarium conditions, successful spawnings have occurred using a number of substitute media.
- “Add a few chunks of Tufa rock,” suggests Hank Marzina. They spawn in the crevices. You can then remove the eggs (with some difficulty) or move the rock to another tank for hatching.
- Larry Tagrin uses tightly-bound sinking mops, with rubber bands every couple of inches. McMonigle says that the fish tended to lay eggs in the plastic crevices of a power head, “so I attached a spawning ‘mop’ of yarn strands fastened together with lots of rubber bands tightly to the power head.”
- Corrugated-style (pleated) filter cartridge material also makes a good spawning site. “I cut the filter in half widthwise, spread it out a bit, and lay it lengthwise in the sand,” says Irwin. “The fish love the tight cracks created by the folds in the filter material,” John Wubbolt confirms.
- Allen Semeit uses a piece of foam/sponge filter material about 10 inches long, 2 inches wide and an inch thick. He positions the foam vertically, anchoring it to the tank rim with a clothespin. The fish “inject” their eggs into the foam pores.
- Or try using a couple of pieces of slate, separated by a little gravel and laid against an inverted flower pot. To harvest the eggs, just lift the top piece of slate carefully away.
Whatever spawning material you choose, remove it or the eggs after two weeks and place in a plastic shoebox for hatching. By moving the spawning media, you won’t actually have to touch the eggs, which can be quite sensitive.
“I usually harvest eggs once a week,” says Irwin. “It’s not unusual to pull between 20-40 eggs per week” from a colony of 20 fish. She uses a 1/3″ rigid tube attached to a flexible piece of air line tubing to collect the eggs, which she hatches in a small guppy trap, the type with slots in the bottom. This is put into a 5-gal. tank with water from the parents’ tank. Fry may start to hatch immediately but usually hatch over a week or so. Once hatched, she releases the fry into the tank, which has good gentle aeration.
“I found that when I bubbled the eggs I got a great hatch. Without [water] circulation, the eggs just died,” says Joe Bulterman
Feeding
A favorite food of both adults and fry is live daphnia. “I feed the daphnia a mix of veggies fortified with multivitamins and minerals before feeding them to the fish,” says McMonigle. Fry will eat ground up flake food, but if daphnia are available they’ll go for them.
With fry, “the first 24 hours are critical,” says Irwin. They are born without an egg sack, so must be fed immediately. “I start them off on Artificial Plankton Rotifer.” After a few days they can be switched to newly hatched Artemia nauplii. Cyclop-eeze is fine. I try to feed them 3 times a day. They eat almost anything, but for best growth, feed live foods. Remember, these are high metabolism fish that don’t like to go hungry.
And always keep the fry tanks clean. Water changes tend to shock the fry, so use a siphon to remove any “gunk” from the tank before topping with fresh water, and be sure to treat chlorinated tap water before use. “Chlorine is a sure way to kill the fry, and the parents, for that matter,” reminds Irwin. “I move the fry from the hatching tank at about 1/2-3/4″,” or when a grow-out tank becomes available.
Problems
As beautiful as they are, L. tanganicanus do have their drawbacks. They need meticulous tank care. They are sensitive to changes in water and water quality. They don’t ship or show well, probably due to a combination of stress and water quality deterioration. And they may be subject to “big head,” a condition sometimes seen in Tanganyikan fish. The head grows, but the body fails to keep up with it. Eventually, the fish will die. Addition of an iodine solution for reef tanks at the dosage recommended seems to help.
References:
Irwin, Judith, “Spawning the Lamprichthys tanganicanus, or How a DedIcated Cichlidiot Learned to Love a Killifish.” Killie Dirt, newsletter of the Canadian Killifish Association, Vol. IV, No. 2, Mar./April 1997, pp. 6-10
Richter, Hans-Joachim (trans. William Charlton), “Spawning the Tanganyikan Pearl Killies, Lamprichthys tanganicanus.“ Tropical Fish Hobbyist, June 1986, pp. 70-75.
Thanks also to Joe Bulterman, Ron Anderson, George Morris, Robert Nahn, Larry Tagrin,, Hank Marzina, Daniel McMonigle, Allan Semeit, John Wubbolt, Gary Elson and Wright Huntley on the Killietalk mailling list.
–– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
Most killikeepers end up with plenty of shipping boxes of various sizes simply by trading with other breeders, or acquiring empty boxes from club meetings, sales, etc.
But sometimes you can’t find a suitable Styrofoam or other shipping box when you need one. Then what?
Make your own shipping boxes!
Start by looking at any corrugated boxes you may have on hand to see if one will meet your needs. If none are suitable, try the U.S. Post Office. They offer Priority Mail boxes of various sizes for shipping, available either at their local offices or through their website. The boxes are made of corrugated cardboard, and sold or shipped collapsed. The user must then fold them to shape and tape the seams.
Now you have the box, but what about insulation?
The big advantage of using preformed Styrofoam boxes is that they are well insulated for the sometimes considerable distances and wide range of temperatures that packed fish must endure. For a cardboard box to be as effective. it needs the addition of some kind of insulating material that completely covers the bottom, sides, and top, with no gaps remaining.
There are several possibilities for insulation. Pieces of leftover fiberglass insulation batting will work well. If you have none on hand, go to your local home supply store and purchase a sheet of insulating Styrofoam sandwiched between layers of plastic. Cut to properly sized pieces with a razor blade or utility knife.
You’ll want a full-sized piece of insulation to lay in the bottom of the box; a piece for each of the four vertical sides (total height less the depth of the bottom and top pieces), and another full size piece for the top. Be sure to cut the insulating material carefully so the pieces fit snugly together inside the box, preventing gaps that can result in severe chilling of the contents! Put the bottom piece in place, then the sides. The top piece goes on last, after you’ve packed the box for shipping.
Use regular plastic fish bags for packing–each fish in its own small bag, with a pair of bags packed inside one larger one. The outside bags should be properly labeled, of course.
If you’re using Kordon breathable bags, be sure to squeeze out most of the air before sealing each bag, and wrap each one in a couple of layers of newspaper before packing, to prevent the bags from touching each other. Labeling can be done on a piece of masking tape attached to the “tail” of the bag.
When the box is packed, put on the top piece of insulation, then close and seal the shipping box. With address and return address information in place, you’re now ready to ship those fish off to their new homes!
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
We’ve all been taught that “clean is better,” and encouraged to change the water in our tanks regularly for the well being of our fish.
Perhaps–just perhaps– that isn’t the only way.
A number of fishkeepers have found that sometimes a little neglect (or perhaps it’s good luck) can offer some pleasant surprises.
“Last spring I tore my sump apart for redesigning and found 2 male A. australe Orange,” says Philip Eversman. What was really strange was that the 2-1/2 gal. tank containing the breeding pair was not hooked up to the water exchange system. “What was really embarrassing was that the two sump males were larger and looked better than the fry I had raised from eggs!”
“Recently a 10 gal. tank I used as a sump for flow through shoeboxes sprang a leak and had to be replaced,” reports Duane Wake. “I set it aside to be taken apart and to save the glass. There was no longer any air for the under gravel filter and no heat.” The tank sat on the basement floor (temperature about 63ºF) for more than two months. When he got around to tearing it down he found fish swimming around in the mulm and dirt. “I couldn’t believe what I was looking at, a beautiful pair of A. exigium.” The male “looked every bit as good as the original wild pair … and better than the ones I raised in my nice clean tanks.”
“Sometimes some tanks that aren’t as well kept up clean-wise produce some nice fish,” observes John Wubbolt. “I have a few on the bottom row that don’t get as much upkeep as the top row tanks, and I get some nice healthy fish growing up with the parents. There must be a lot of food in the algae and mulm for fry to pick at and hide in.”
And just as a final note, this from Lee Harper, who participated in a collecting trip to South America a while back. “We observed nigripinnis fry in Uruguay feeding on cow manure. Despite the appearance that water tested free of nitrites and nitrates and was very low in dissolved solids.”
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, April 2006 Return to Top of Page
Most aquarists, at least once, have encountered an outbreak of disease or pests that required chemical intervention. It’s difficult to know which of the available aquatic medications/treatments on the market to use, hence, a brief review.
The Dyes–These anti-bacterial chemicals are often used to protect incubating eggs from light and to treat such conditions as ick or velvet. Dyes will stain, so handle with care.
Acriflavine–(Euflavine, Trypaflavine, Panflavin, Flavine, or Gonacrine) is a mutagenic, fluorescent yellow-orange dye used as a fungus retardant. Used in a dilute solution (a few drops to color water pale yellow), it is considered harmless. However, heavy concentrations can cause mutations in incubating fish eggs. It may also kill Java Moss.
Malachite Green–is similar to, and used much like, Methylene Blue. It is poisonous to mammals.
Methylene Blue–provides an alternate oxygen pathway, aiding in respiration under emergency conditions. It doesn’t affect fungi or bacteria, and is usually used–either alone or with Acriflavine–to darken water and protect light-sensitive eggs. Infertile eggs will turn a dark blue.
The Medications
Maroxy–a trade name for erythromycin, an antibiotic that works on Gram positive bacteria. It is not terribly useful on warm-water fish infections, but is effective against red algae. Use caution–Maroxy can kill everything in a tank. Many aquarists recommend using it at half the recommended amount or less.
Flubendazole–(Panacur) is a veterinary anthelmintic (wormer) that has proven useful against a variety of aquatic pests and parasites. It can be mixed with food (250ppm), but the usual application is to add it directly to tank water. For more efficient treatment, reduce the tank water by half, while maintaining circulation and aeration. Turn off carbon and undergravel filters. Dose is 1/2 gram (1/8-1/4 tsp.) of 5% powder per 5 gallons of water. Change the water after three days; repeat treatment if required. Some problems may require only one treatment, others may require several over the course of a week or so.
Flubendazole is effective against Hydra, Ick, Velvet, Heximeta (wasting syndrome), Camallanus worms, Gill Flukes, and Glugea.
Reference: Carrigan, Dr. Neville. The Healthy Aquarium, Tetra, 1990.
Thanks also to Barry Cooper, Scott Douglas, Tyrone Genade, Charles Harrison, Wright Huntley, Charles Nunziata, Alan Slack, George Slusarczuk, and Brian Watters, all on Killietalk.
–– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
We’re always looking for alternate, and easy, food sources for our fish, particularly for fry. Here are a few ideas for feeding your fry, culled from discussions with various successful fishkeepers.
1. Keep a “sludge” tank, with a good layer of infusoria-containing mulm on the bottom. Siphon out small amounts of this sludge to feed the fry.
2. Use filter floss to wipe off the film that accumulates on the sides of your tanks, then drop it into your fry tanks. The dirty floss is liable to be full of tiny critters your fry will relish.
3. Harvest water from the very top of your peat container for feeding to fry. It will probably be swarming with “critters.”
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
We usually think of aquariums as containers of water containing fish and plants, usually with some type of filtration system. But is it possible to have a healthy aquarium and fish without a filtering unit?
“Yes,” says Tyrone Genade, who posts frequently on the Killietalk mailing list. “For over a year I maintained a planted tank full of big angels, rainbows etc., without any filtration other than a powerhead for circulating the water.” At the time of his post, the tank was still up and running, and hadn’t had a water change in more than six months. The ammonia level was 0, and a number of species (angelfish, Kribensis, Apistogrammas, rainbowfish and pencil fish) either had produced fry or were spawning in it.
His secret? No surface disturbance.
Tyrone has also used this “plant filtration method” on Tanganyikans (which will tolerate zero ammonia), and in his killifish tanks. Some of his Nothos managed very nicely for months with only weekly water changes. The tanks contained a huge ball of Java Moss or Hornwort, and had very little aeration.
“Water changes are very important if you have over-stocked tanks and few plants,” he is quick to point out. “But if you have enough plants, they are needless,” since many plants favor ammonia/ammonium as a Nitrogen source, and literally “suck it up.”
Many aquarists already know that a good sized clump of Java moss in fry containers will help keep ammonia levels low (as long as you don’t overfeed) and provide the occasional snack for peckish fry.
–– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus)
This small (4″) narrow-leafed member of the Echinodorus family is a new world native that can be found from Brazil north to the southern United States. It has a grasslike appearance, with rosettes of unstemmed leaves. Reproduction is by runners.
The Pygmy Chain Sword needs light, particularly in the yellow and red ranges, and a stable substrate. Once established, the plant produces shoots regularly. The resulting clumps often need thinning. Pygmy Chain Swords are available in several varieties, distinguished by their leaf color and shape.
Preferred Conditions: Water slightly acidic, pH 6.5-7.2; soft to moderately hard, 2-12ºCH; moderate temperatures of 72-86ºF. –– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
Really Getting Equipment Clean
Occasionally even the best fishkeeper is faced with a major cleaning problem–after an outbreak of disease, perhaps, or when you’re reconditioning an old tank. How to do it? Here are a few possibilities.
Aquarisol is reported effective as a disinfectant. Use at 5 times the strength suggested for net dips.
Chlorine Bleach solution will kill most pathogens and infesting bugs, and will eliminate algae. Use 1/2 cup bleach per 5 gal. water. Soak tanks (fill right to the brim) and equipment overnight. Drain, neutralize thoroughly using 1/2 cup Vinegar per 1 gal. water, then rinse with clear water. For really dirty tanks, or those with algae, use bleach full strength with a nylon scrub pad.
Note that some plastics, if not properly rinsed and aired, can introduce bleach into aquarium water. Be sure to use a chlorine neutralizer, or let equipment air dry for a day or two.
Potassium Permanganate (KMn04)is an oxidization agent that acts on organic matter. It’s effective against both bacteria and parasites. Use it with care. Overdoses can damage or kill fish, and it can stain. It’s usually found in crystalline form, so you’ll need to make up a stock solution (1/8 tsp. crystals per pint of water). For each 10 gal. water, use 5 tbs. stock solution. Aerate the tank and allow the solution to work for 4 hours. The water will turn purple, then slowly change to a yellow-brown. Drain the used solution and wipe down tank surfaces. To neutralize any residues, use 3% hydrogen peroxide at 5ml per 20 gal. of water.
Seri-Clean, from Jungle Products, contains formaldehyde and phosphate-free soap. Since it suds nicely, you can easily see where you’ve cleaned. Let the suds sit for a few minutes, then rinse out the tank.
Some aquarists suggest using an overnight soak in water containing a generous measure of non-iodized salt. It kills most things, and is cheap and safe.
Mineral Deposits–crusty opaque white or gray marks on tanks–can be a trial. Removal takes patience and the use of a single-edged razor blade and/or a nylon scrub pad. Sometimes several applications of a product are required before you see results. Be sure to clean the tank thoroughly when you’re done, so no chemical residues remain.
A vinegar soak will sometimes loosen mineral deposits enough so they can be scraped or scrubbed off.
Lime-off, from Jungle Labs, is reported to be very effective. “It really works,” says one aquarist who has used the product extensively.
Another product you might try is diluted acid cleaner, from the hardware store.
eferences: Selph, Peter. “KMn04 Ipotassium Permanganate) What is it, How to use it, Advantages & Dangers.” Discus Resource Page, http://home.earthlink.net/`grenier2/pp.htm
Thanks also to various posts on Killietalk.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
Several Methods for Epiplatys annulatus
We don’t usually run several articles on one topic in the same issue, but since Epiplatys annulatus is our club mascot species, the following information seems appropriate.
Although a long-time favorite in the killifish hobby, Epiplatys annulatus is one of those species that some fanciers find “as easy as dirt,” while others find nearly impossible to keep and breed.
Undoubtedly, ANN are well worth keeping. They may be one of the smallest of the family – an unusually large male may reach 1-1/2″ – but their coloration is striking: wide vertical bands of creamy white alternated with sooty gray over the length of the fish. Males sport a single-spike tail marked with black, white, and red/orange stripes of varying intensities. Overall, a very pretty fish, and because of its small size, ideally suited for those with only limited space.
But … how to keep them?
The “experts” suggest many possible setups, but most agree on several points.
- Use small, species aquaria
- Have plenty of plants, particularly the
floating types - If possible, use at least two pair of breeders
- Keep water conditions stable, and water movement very slow
- Use Moderately soft water
Whatever method you use, remember that ANN eggs are small (0.9 mm, compared to 1.6 mm for Fundulopanchax gardneri). The eggs are fairly easy to see in water, but the fry are tiny and transparent. Often all you can see are the eyes, or the iridescent reflector on top of the head. Remarks Wright Huntley, “It’s like seeing a sliver of glass in the water.” Wright used a bare tank with fibrous peat on the bottom, Java Moss, and a foam filter with gentle bubbles running in it. The surface was covered with floating Water Sprite and Duckweed.
Remove the juveniles as soon as they show stripes, Wright cautions, for they will eat the smaller babies even if the parents don’t. Also keep in mind that ANN seem quite sensitive to changes in temperature and in water quality. Make frequent small water changes as opposed to larger infrequent ones, and keep them warm.
Jim Langhammer found that breeding ANN in his local (Detroit) water (120 ppm hardness, 7.2 pH) was next to impossible. When he set up a 5 gallon breeding tank with half tap and half reverse osmosis water, results improved dramatically. The tank had Java Moss floating freely over a bare bottom, and hornwort floating on top. Breeders were left for a month, then moved to a new setup. Fry usually began to appear in about two weeks, usually visible at the surface or creeping along the glass. Two weeks after the parents were removed, Jim began to perform partial water changes on the tank with fry, gradually bringing the water back to tap water parameters. After two weeks, he began feeding the fry vinegar eels.
“The adults are vigorous jumpers,” Jim warns, “so keep water levels low or the tank tightly covered!”
Jim Eller, also from Michigan, has well water (7.2-7.4 ph, 220 ppm). He separated the males from the females, acclimating and conditioning them in 2.5 gal. tanks. After feeding them on live foods for two weeks at a temperature of 72-74°F, he put he put all the adults together in a 5-gallon tank furnished with two dark-colored spawning mops, one floating and one on the bottom.
After a week, Jim pulled the mops, finding more than 30 eggs in the floating mop; the bottom mop was nearly empty. He hand-picked the eggs and incubated them in about an inch of water lightly tinted with acriflavine (10 drops per gallon). Incubating eggs were stored away from direct light, and the water changed every couple of days. At 74°F eggs hatched in about 14 days.
Newly hatched fry were moved to a shoebox containing Java Moss and a couple of snails. Jim added a bit of liquid fry food, then fed the fry on infusoria and vinegar eels.
“If I wanted to ‘force breed’ E. annulatus,” says Joe Bulterman, “I’d take a clean 2 liter soda pop bottle and cut off the top.” He then filled the container 3/4 with water, added a mop that covered about 3/4 of the surface area, and introduced a male and two female ANN. The breeders remained in the spawning container for five days before being returned to the main tank, and were fed baby brine shrimp and bloodworms.
The spawning mop usually contained numerous eggs, which Joe harvested and incubated in a shallow Styrofoam© container with about 5 oz. water. Fry hatched in 18-22 days and were moved with an eyedropper into a 1 gallon shoebox with Java Moss and a few snails. The fry were fed a blend of freeze-dried bloodworms, plankton, and a flake food, with the ingredients ground together into dust, and stored in film canisters in the refrigerator. An alternative to hand picking the eggs is to remove the mop, add fresh water and Java Moss to the spawning container, then return the mop and wait for fry to appear.
Al Boatman (Florida) breeds ANN by putting “two or three short floating mops in a 2 gal. glass tank, along with a ton of duckweed … (and) Java Moss.” He then adds the breeders and leaves them for thee weeks, before moving them to another tank His water parameters are 6.5-7.0 pH, and 36-40 ppm (rainwater). He feeds the fry on infusoria until they can take baby brine shrimp.
Al has also used a three tank setup, moving the breeders every two weeks. This gave hatching fry time enough to grow a bit before being moved into a 10 gal. tank for growout.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, July 2006 Return to Top of Page
Slime – it’s important for our fish
Fish body slime “usually goes unnoticed–and [is] misunderstood,” writes Erica Stoton in a February 2003 article in Aquarium Fish Magazine, “despite its enormous impact on their well-being.”
Slime, which is produced by all fish, results from a specialized cellular mechanism in the skin. In a process unique to fish, the deepest portion of the top skin layer (epidermis) produces daughter cells which cannot multiply, thus deteriorate and die. These dead cells are expelled through the skin as a glycoprotein (mucin) which turns to mucous when combined with water. This ongoing process produces a constantly replenished mucoid covering for the fish.
All fish produce slime. The mucous producing cells vary in size, dispersion, and arrangement among species. Fish with small or undeveloped scales such as tetras, loaches, and some cichlids, have large numbers of mucous producing cells, resulting in abundant mucous. Armored catfish have smaller cells, thus produce less. Slime varies from thin and transparent to thick and slightly opaque.
The slime coat is more than just an external protection for fish. Slime traps pathogens and exto-parasites and sloughs them off, and protects wounds. It also directly affects dermal respiration, governing the transport of gases (osmoregulation), and internal salt balance. Few of us consider one of slime’s function–improved laminar flow, or the degree of turbulence as the fish moves through water.
Certain fish boast specialized functions of their slime. Anabantids’ slime helps clump suspended solids around them, improving dermal respiration and movement, and fortifies bubbles used in nest-building. Corydoras catfish slime helps solidify particulate matter for ingestion. African lungfish mucous forms an “envelope” around the fish, allowing them to survive dry periods. Excess Discus slime, produced by breeding fish, provides food for the fry.
We usually think of slime as a defensive material, but some fish actually use it offensively. Among schooling fish, body mucous produces and stores hormones known as “fright contagions.” When a fish is injured, these hormones are released into the water, signaling other fish.
Damage to the slime coat can result from a number of factors–improper water conditions or poor water quality, physical damage from injury or rough handling, irritants such as chlorine or medications, and diet. Any change to the mucous coat can open the way for attacks by disease organisms or parasites.
There are steps you can–and should–take to promote a healthy slime coat for your fish.
- Handle your fish gently, using fine mesh nets. If you must use your hands, wet them first.
- Provide a varied, healthy, balanced diet.
- If you can, use live plants (some fish have even been observed “grooming” against live plants).
- Maintain quality water conditions, and use a water conditioner.
We can’t completely protect our fish against damage or disease, but we can go a long way toward making their lives healthier and more comfortable.
Reference: Stoton, Erica. “Fish Slime,” Aquarium Fish Magazine, February 2003, pp. 19-23
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
Some possibilities for
Alternate Foods
For many amateur fishkeepers (and the majority of us are amateurs) dry flake food is a staple of our fishes’ diet. This is not all bad–most dry foods are formulated to meet the complete dietary needs of aquarium fish, with proper blends of protein, fats, etc. Introducing something different in the diet may perk up your fish’s appetites and lead to more activity, color, and breeding success.
“You might be surprised,” writes Al Anderson in a recent post on killietalk, “but fish will eat most of the meats and veggies we eat, if frozen and shaved thin enough….. I have used all types of fish, beef, pork, lamb, shellfish, chicken, turkey, duck, lobster, crab” and shrimp. “Shaved salmon,” he says, “is great” as are veggies like spinach, zucchini, sweet potatoes, etc.
“I have the feeling that we underestimate our killy’s appetite for veggies,” observes Wright Huntley. “Mine have always eagerly picked out the soft part from blanched zuchinni ends.” Others have offered their fish crushed frozen peas (microwaved just enough to thaw them).
Bill Martin reports that he “puts frozen shrimp to a cheese grater” and feeds it. He has also tried small pieces of water-packed canned tuna and bite-sized pieces of smelt. But “there is a caution to feeding raw fish,” he warns. Raw fish contain thiaminase, a thiamine destroying enzyme. We usually don’t feed enough raw fish for this to be a problem. However, to be on the safe side, thaw raw frozen fish in very hot water. “This blanching destroys the thiaminase and makes the [raw] fish easy to break into bite-size pieces.”
We don’t usually think of liver as a food for our fish, but John Hladky uses frozen chicken livers as a staple food. “I clean and de-vein the livers, freeze them into a block (or a blob), then scrape off suitable sized pieces with a dull knife.” He feeds small fish first, since as the frozen meat thaws it becomes harder to cut small pieces. Lee Harper has fed beef and calves liver to his fish, as well as gelatin based salmon cat food.
With any foods new to your fish, introduce them slowly, and watch carefully for possible fouling problems. Remember, too, that warm-blooded protein foods (red meats etc.) require higher temperatures for proper digestion. If you have a cool fishroom, this slow digestion process could be a problem.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
Some suggestions for
Vinegar Eels
Turbatri aceti (vinegar eels) have long been known to aquarists as trouble-free, nutritious fry food for culturing. They live and swim a long time in aquarium water, are perfect food for tiny fry, and even when the cultures do (rarely) go bad, they don’t have unpleasant odors.
Culturing vinegar eels is easy and nearly foolproof. Just put equal measures of vinegar and water in a clean, covered jar, add a starter culture, and sit back.
But what vinegar?
Cider vinegar, made from apples and hard cider, is the most readily available. Wine vinegar, from grapes and wine, and Malt vinegar, which starts as beer wort or finished beer, can usually be found in your local grocery store, as can Rice vinegar, made from steamed rice and sake.
Eels will grow in all of these, but recent experiments indicate that malt vinegar (with a bit of stale–preferably dark–beer or malt added occasionally) may be the optimum medium, producing the most populous cultures. Second was Rice vinegar, third was red wine, and cider placed fourth!
Most aquarists use cider vinegar. Some recommend adding some sliced apple, a bit of applesauce, or sugar occasionally to produce additional fermentable sugars.
Harvesting vinegar eels is a bit complicated, but not that difficult. 1) Pour the vinegar culture through a coffee filter, or suspend a small wad of filter floss or a piece of material in the culture. Squeeze out excess vinegar, rinse the collection material in water, and feed the water. 2) Pour the culture into a narrow-necked bottle, add a “plug” of filter floss, top with a measure of clear water and let sit. The worms will migrate up into the fresh water. Siphon off this water and feed it.
References: Tappin, Adrien. “Vinegar Eels—Turbatrix aceti.” I’ao Hawai’i, March 1999. Author’s website http:www.ecn.net.au/àtippin/
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
In the last few years Kordon Breathable Bags have provided an alternative to the standard plastic shipping bags for fish. While regular shipping bags require 1/3 to 3/4 of air by volume, Kordon Breathable Bags require no air at all, being highly permeable: air exchange through the bag is sufficient. Thus more fish can be shipped in a given container, as long as the individual bags are not tightly packed together for shipment, and are separated by a layer or two of newspaper to allow for air exchange.
However, acclimating fish shipped in Kordon bags may require a change in your usual techniques.
Never float a Kordon Breathable Bag in water. It can only “breathe” in air; if floated in water, the fish may rapidly deplete the available oxygen and die. Instead:
- Open the Kordon bag and pour out 1/3 of the water.
- Replace with water from the container into which you’re introducing the fish.
- After five minutes and again after 10 minutes, repeat the partial drain-and-replace process.
- After another five minutes net the fish out of the breathing bag and place into the appropriate tank.
- Discard water remaining in breathing bag.
This procedure allows the fish to acclimate to the changed water conditions and temperatures fairly slowly, while introducing no water borne pathogens to the destination tank.
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
We’ve all faced them. The aquarium is set up, the filter is running smoothly, the heater (if you use one) has stabilized and is operating correctly. Your fish seem happy and healthy and all appears to be going well.
Then you encounter problems.
Don’t get discouraged. This happens to even the best aquarists. Let’s review a few of the more common problems and offer a few suggestions and solutions.
Leaks are hardly unusual, especially with used tanks. They’re fairly rare with new ones, but can happen. Leaks may be minor, a slow seep that puddles along a seam and leaves a residue, or they may be serious, resulting in wet floor or carpeting.
In some cases, leaks are so severe that tanks must be junked or rebuilt, but in many cases, leaks can be fixed. For some of us, even minor seam sealing is a major project; for others, even broken glass can be easily replaced.
For minor leaks located high on an edge seam, you can sometimes ignore the problem. Just don’t fill the tank beyond the leaking point. Major leaks, or minor ones located low on the tank, can often be repaired using silicone aquarium sealant. This will, of course, require emptying and thoroughly drying the tank before repair. Simply run a bead of aquarium cement carefully along the leaking seam. Allow to dry and cure completely before refilling and testing the tank. In some cases, you may need to remove old sealant before starting.
Most new aquariums come with a guarantee, so if you have serious leaks in a brand new aquarium, return it to the dealer.
Bubbles sometimes form on plant leaves and the aquarium sides. These are simply various dissolved gases coming out of solution. They won’t hurt the tank or plants, but can injure fish if they come out of solution in the blood stream–rather like a diver with the bends.
Chlorine/Chloramine. Most aquarists get their water from municipal sources, which treat their water to assure drinking water safety. Chlorine and chloramine destroy water-borne contaminants, but they are lethal to fish. Water containing chlorine can simply be aged for a day or two to allow the chlorine to dissipate before use. Water treated with chloramine will require chemical treatment with a chloramine-neutralizing product, such as Stress Coat. Pre-treating all your water will eliminate both these dangers.
Cloudy water. This is usually caused by a bacterial bloom resulting from overfeeding or improper filter maintenance, but can also occur from fine suspended particles, if the substrate hasn’t been thoroughly rinsed before use. To remedy the situation, perform a partial water change and rinse out the filter, repeating in a day or two as necessary.
Green water is definitely an unsightly problem–unless you’re specifically attempting its culture. Green water is simply a “bloom” of single-celled algae, and usually results from an over-abundance of nitrite/nitrate in the water and too much light. Change part of the water, repeating as needed; at the same time, reduce the total amount of light the tank receives.
–– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, February 2006 Return to Top of Page
Ten (More) Plants for Beginners
What plants might do well and look good in your tanks? The species listed will adapt to a wide range of temperatures, water chemistry, and lighting. Most are readily available from pet shops and/or other hobbyists.
1. Nitella flexilis–For those who seem able only to grow algae, this plant is for you. “Spider algae” is an attractive species of algae, similar in appearance to Java Moss. Temperature mid 40s-80s° F, although prolonged high temperatures will kill it. Nitella is good at removing excess nitrogen, and is useful in the breeding tank, providing dense cover.
Growing Nitella is easy: just drop it into the aquarium. It will even grow in unlit breeding tanks. In planted tanks, it may require occasional trimming or thinning. You may have to ask around to find this plant, but it is worth the effort.
2. Bolbitis heudelotii–Otherwise known as the Bolbitis fern, African water fern, and Congo fern, this plant grows from a rhizome, like Java Fern. Never bury the rhizome; it will rot. Tie it to rocks or wood, or anchor only the roots in gravel. Bolbitis prefers soft to medium hard water between 72-82° F and neutral pH. Ordinary fluorescent lighting is fine. A slow grower, Bolbitis does best when undisturbed, and prefers some water movement.
3. Riccia fluitans–Otherwise known as Crystalwort, Riccia tolerates temperatures from 59- 85° F and a pH from 6-8. Primarily grown as a floating plant, Riccia can form dense rafts which provide excellent cover for fry. Pieces may even be incorporated into the bubble-nests of some species. The leaves are short and zig-zag shaped, with a strong yellow-green color. Riccia can be tied down to grow submerged, and can be grown out of water where it produces spores. Most reproduction is vegetative.
4. Hygrophilia difformis–Also known as Water Wisteria, this rooted stem plant is native to Indo-Malasia, where it grows submerged in rice paddies. It tolerates the ordinary environment of tropical tanks well, but requires more light than many plants. The fern-like leaves are pale green above and whitish below, and appear entirely different when growing above the water. Provide plenty of light and propagate from stem cuttings rooted in fine aquarium gravel.
5. Aponogeton crispus–Many hybrid plants are sold under this name, or as “wonder bulb.” Since they all have the same needs and uses, the exact species may not be critical. The leaves and roots grow from a “hairy” rhizome, or bulb. Leaves are light green with wavy edges; roots are white; the tiny flowers are at the end of a long stalk that usually grows above the water line.
Look for firm bulbs that are free of black areas. If leaves are present, pick a bulb with fresh new growth. To plant, dig a small pit with your fingers; place the rhizome with the growing tip just above the gravel line and cover the rest. Aponogeton are fast growers, quickly reaching 15-20 inches. After about 5 months, many plants will drop their leaves and go dormant. For the resting period, place the rhizome in a plastic bag and store in a cool dark place for 6-8 weeks.
6. Anubias barteri–Native to West Africa, Anubias are slow-growing, shade-loving plants. A. barteri has leaves up to 5 in. long, A. barteri nana leaves only reach 2 in. Anubias grow from a rhizome, with roots growing from the bottom. The plant can be attached to a piece of wood or stone, or allowed to float freely on the bottom; do not plant the rhizome or it may die. These are slow growing, long-lived, tough plants that require very little care. Reproduction is vegetative. The rhizome can be cut in half, or small plants detached from it as they appear. Anubias sometimes bloom in the aquarium, with a blossom similar to a Calla lily.
7. Crinium thaianum–Commonly known as “onion plant,” this Thailand native grows from a bulb, producing long strap-shaped leaves similar to Vallisneria gigantea, that may reach 4 ft. or more. Even in large tanks, they often grow horizontally once they reach the surface.
Look for unblemished white bulbs with bright green leaves. Plant in the back of the aquarium, or in a back corner, leaving half the bulb above the gravel. Under good conditions the plant will grow rapidly; under less than favorable ones, it may not grow at all, but may stay in good shape for a long time. Reproduction is by offset bulblets.
8. Cryptocoryne wendtii–This Sri Lanka native is one of the most variable Cryptocorynes, being very adaptable and showing many different sizes, colors, and leaf shapes. It looks best when planted in groups of 3-5 plants, and grows well in lower light conditions. It does require stable temperature and water conditions, not dislikes sudden changes.
Look for plants that are growing upright without twisted stems, and that have at least some white colored roots. Plant in a substrate of fine gravel. In a new aquarium, a substrate additive may be useful. Be sure to dig a hole big enough to accommodate the roots, and keep the crown above the gravel line. Once successfully established, Crypts often produce new plants from runners, which can be dug up and replanted.
9. Ceratophyllum demersum and C. submersum–Almost everyone knows “Hornwort” which has a world-wide distribution. A typical bunch plant with short rhizoids (false roots) it is suitable for both temperate and tropical aquaria, and is usually sold with 3-5 stems tied together. C. demersum has two-forked leaves that grow in whorls around the stem; C. submersum has leaves with three forks. Both are various shades of green, depending on growing conditions.
Simply drop it into a tank, or strip the bottom few leaves and insert the ends into the gravel. It will grow quite large, and if left to float, will form dense mats. Look for compact plants with closely spaced leaves and good color. Propagation is by stem cuttings.
10. Echinodorus species–These swordplants come in a variety of sizes and color variations. Most are bright green, but a few are red or reddish-colored, making a nice contrast in the planted aquarium. Sword plants often grow large, so make good centerpiece plants.
Look for clean white roots and active leaf growth, with new leaves sprouting from the center. You’ll need a substrate of 3-4 in. to give the plants room enough to grow, and plant so the crown is level with the gravel line. Most swords prefer bright light, but the red ones often manage with less.
Resource: Watts, Bruce. “Ten More Plants for Beginners.” The Aquatic Gardener, Aquatic Gardening Association, Vol. 12, No. 6, Nov-Dec. 1999.
. — G.C.K.A. Newsletter, August 2005 Return to Top of Page
Tips for Hatching Reluctant Eggs
Thanks to Lonny Langione, on killietalk@aka.org
Occasionally killikeepers encounter the problem of non-annual eggs that are fully eyed up, but simply refuse to hatch. Here are a couple of more techniques to try when faced with this dilemma.
Take a 16″ long piece of 1/8″ hard tubing (the size used in some undergravel filters). Attach a long piece of airline tubing to one end. Carefully suck a single egg into the tubing, up to the end of the rigid part, then blow the egg back into the container. This will often cause the egg to open and the fry to emerge.
Lonny also uses this tubing arrangement to transfer small fry between containers.
Another possible trigger for hatching – add an airstone to the incubation container.
If you have a lot of eggs, an egg tumbler (often used as a hatching substitute for mouthbrooding cichlids) may be worth a try.
— GCKA Newsletter, January 2006 Return to Top of Page
Want to Make Your Fish Happy?
Change the Water
“How happy to you want your fish?” asks Bill Shenefelt. That’s the basic factor determining the frequency of water changes. If you want happy, healthy fish that are likely to breed well and show good color, do regular water changes!
Remember, Bill cautions, that unless you clean it, “everything you put into a tank is going to stay there forever! The form may change, but it is still there.” Frequency of water changes depends on four things, Bill says.
- Whether plants are in the tank, and how many
- What and how much you feed
- How many fish are housed in the tank
- Whether the tank has gravel on the bottom
For a 5-gal. tank with no plants and a single pair of 2 inch sized killifish, a 25% water change every other week may be reasonable. If there are plants in the tank, that could be stretched to every 3, or even every 4 weeks. If you feed flake food, which pollutes quickly, have no plants and have a gravel bottom, you’d “better do it every week.”
For a family of about a dozen killies in a 10 gal. planted tank, the 25% every other week also applies. You might even be able to get by with 10% every other week.
In general, the more frequently you do water changes, the faster killies will grow and the more likely they are to breed. “Killies will live in gunk!” says Bill. “They won’t breed or grow well, but they can survive.”
— G.C.K.A. Newsletter, June 2006 Return to Top of Page
“Fish are not sensitive to water changes,” contends David Sanchez, writing on Killietalk. “They are sensitive rather to changes in conductivity.”
“Our fish need and love water changes,” he says, “because it reduces the pollution and replicates their natural environment.” It is not water changes that are bad for our fish, but rather the shock when we let the water sit too long before being changed.
In nature, he explains, the rivers where killies live have very stable conductivity. If it rains a lot, the conductivity may lower, but in general the water remains very clean, with very low dissolved organic compounds, zero nitrates, etc. In an aquarium the opposite is true, “the water gets filthy” Dave says, even though the ammonia, nitrite, etc. indicate that it is “good.” This “good” aquarium water is nowhere comparable to that of their native habitats.
– G.C.K.A. Newsletter, March 2006 Return to Top of Page
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